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I am pretty sure they removed "Vanilla Creatures" instead of "Vanilla Creature Graphics". By mistake I did the same once, and testing it now, that is what greys out the button.
This should actually make it possible to make a piece of armor which, say, has a coverage of 50%, but twice the layer size, balancing the two factors out.
This is certainly worth some tests, regardless. It's also been said, though I do not know if it's been thoroughly tested, that increasing coverage past 100% will also increase armor thickness.
Bascinet under other helms not intended as well, will be corrected any time soon.