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I play it with 24 civs (double Germany and France, banned Babylon obv because Hammurabi is broken archetype) so no more idiotic city-state and/or great people snowballing you-have-everything-game. And no more free real estate to settle. Instead you need to focus and fight for land and you will lag behind on deity. And that is exactly what I like. Nice challenge.
You just have to accept this is not a map for fast gaming. If you're looking for fast, enjoyable conquest you just better pick something else;)
Also I agree that there are too many hills in the map in general. If hills and mountains were reduced by about 25% that would make a big difference while having strategic gameplay and being realistic