In my initial days of TS I always got a bit frustrated at the 'guessing game' I found myself in, regarding when to start braking for station stops primarily, but also stop signals - line speeds and formations, amongst other things, make this highly variable! At that time I was fixated with career scenarios and points so time was of the essence! I wished I could think of a way to shave seconds from my driving. Now, driving in a 'calmer' and more professional manner, I still wanted to find a way of representing something approaching prototypical methods - just for my own satisfaction.

With that in mind, I searched some industry material and found 'Appendix B Signalling Braking Distances for Passenger Trains' of 'Lineside Signal Spacing and Speed Signage', of Railway Group Standard, Issue 4, September 2015 - published by RSSB (if you could search it for yourself, I didn't like to reproduce it here. Page 31. There's also a composite table for all trains I should really look into!) . In it's own words - 'Synopsis. This document specifies the minimum distances that must be provided between the first cautionary aspect and the stop signal to which it applies. In addition, it addresses the signing for permissible speeds and speed restrictions.' That was just what I was looking for and is now the basis for my braking technique.

If I could work out the braking force for any traction I was driving to produce a 'normal brake application' then I could use that along with minimum distance in the document to get quite accurate stopping.

The table lays out minimum stopping distances as described in it's synopsis. Personally I ignore x5mph data and use whole x0mph figures. I also ignore <40mph figures, as by the time you've braked to that speed you can generally see the platform or signal and 'feel' is taking over with your brake control, rather than data.

So the table tells us the minimum distances are (converted to miles for TS) -

40 mph - 258 metres (0.17)
50 - 418 (0.26)
60 - 632 (0.40)
70 - 870 (0.55)
80 - 1190 (0.74)
90 - 1537 (0.97)
100 - 2041 (1.27)
110 - 2041 (1.27)
120 - 2041 (1.27)
125 - 2054 (1.28)

There's 8 distances there. The distances in meters aren't required, I've just shown them for completeness - it's the miles that should be utilised. A bit daunting at first, but it's surprising how quickly they stick in your memory once you start using this method; particularly 40-80mph as these are used most regularly.

Edit: if you search the document you'll also find data for distances on gradients, and deceleration distances to lower speed restrictions, also with gradient values. For me, the gradient figures just over-complicate things and I like to alter the distance on the fly.

The data utilised by RSSB, already shown, is married to normal brake applications of trains. It would be unreasonable and unsafe to expect drivers to use emergency braking to stop within those distances, and at the same time train operators can't reasonably expect signalling to be spaced to allow bringing trains to a stand using minimal braking force - both would be unworkable.

So braking instructions for traction sets out a 'normal brake application' (nba for the purposes of this guide now) for that type. It's a braking force which will stop a train within guideline distances 'under normal circumstances'.

So for every train I drive in TS I like to try to know the real world nba. You can often find these on the internet - locodocs.co.uk is a good starting point, or just searching. I should at this point say some traction in TS has poor physics, but most are remarkably realistic.

Once you know the nba for the traction you're driving, and the data for the stopping distance, you now know a guideline braking point for your train. From this initial point you may need to factor things in like gradient, load, rail head conditions, etc. But as I said, that's all it is - an initial guide on your initial distance. As the distance to the point reduces you may need to adjust slightly. But if used correctly, you'll be surprised at how little adjustment is needed.

As an example, a nba for a Class 156 is a step 2 application. This is modelled really well in the TS 156, in fact really well - so much so that breaking curve of a 156, which has tread brakes, will often see you reducing the braking force nearer the stopping point as it rapidly slows at lower speeds.

In comparison, there's some bad examples - like the 158 shipped with the Settle to Carlisle route. On that one step 3 is required to stop within the RSSB distances! That leaves no room for increased adjustment before emergency braking. I just accept it as a bad model and live with the more 'gamey' feel of that braking, mostly braking before I should really need to, in step 2.

In the instances where you can't find information on braking instructions for a particular engine/MU, it's normally pretty easy to guesstimate it. As a starting point I'll work off 2/3rds of the available brake chamber/brake pipe before emergency kicks in, and take it from there.

When I'm driving a new model I always run it out on a Quick Drive over a flat road (I use London to Peterborough, starting at Peterborough), get it up to full speed, and use what I judge a nba to be, and note the braking effect using the mileage to the next point on the HUD. That tells me if the real world/my guessed nba is modelled correctly, or whether I need to modify it for the purposes of TS.

After I've did that I note the braking force for future reference. Sometimes the brake control is notched; other times it's just a %. When searching for an initial % when you know the step for an nba, move the control until it's visually at the required step in the cab then just note the %. It won't be long until you have a list for your TS traction.

I'm not suggesting this a fail safe, 100% accurate, or the best method. I just know it works for me, it's based on real world notions, and it gives me a satisfying experience using it.

There's quite often a bit of adjustment, but that's not unusual to real train driving.

What it DOES do is, reduces the adjustment required from just guessing when you need to break, and hopefully give you the same satisfaction I get. There's nothing like gliding to a smooth, calculated stop on a platform - rather than dumping the brake at the last minute to get your front door on!

I hope you enjoyed reading and it at least gave you some food for thought with your own driving, whatever that outcome is.