First we need to start setting everything out in Moza Pit House before we can go to the game settings. The most important thing is to get as much as we can get from the 5Nm base without losing any details and avoiding clipping to a minimum. This is going to be the universal setting for all your rally group cars.

Tutorial is valid for:

AC Rally 0.1
Moza R5 1.2.6.7
HBP Handbrake 1.2.1.3
HGP Shifter 1.2.1.8
CM2 Dash 1.2.5.13
Moza Pit House 1.3.4.47

---

ES Steering Wheel Basic
ES 12-inch Round Wheel Mod



*Hands-off protection must be switched off for better performance and road details.





Please, before you go any further, read the information below to understand the problem, solution and setup.

What is wheel oscillation in sim racing? Oscillations describe a situation where a wheel is shaking back and forth in an unwanted way. For example, when letting go of the steering wheel while driving in a straight line. So having all settings OFF or VERY LOW (near 0) on this page will result in having problem with unwanted oscillations. FFB will be very sharp but from time to time it may cause loss of car control. You start asking WHY? Oscillations. I have spent lots of time finding sharp detailed settings but without wheel oscillations (absolute minimum). So this is the answer why this page has been adjusted like this. The car is easy to control and stable on track. It can make you faster or your lap times may be much more consistent than before. Steering is the first part.




*More under development







BT mode you can have On / Off . It's up to you.





*Under development



Clutch - 0% / 0% and 60% / 100%
Brake - 5% / 0 % and 100% / 100%
Throttle - 0% / 0% and 95% / 100%

Brake MOD. Braking is the second part.

If you have installed the Moza brake mod, you need to calibrate your pedal travel position. Also, I assume you have your pedals fixed to rig or floor, otherwise there is no point having a brake mod on.
To calibrate, press the calibration button and then press the brake pedal as hard as you possibly do without looking at the screen and releasing it. End of calibration. Now, under normal braking, you should be under or around 80% force on the graph and, this way, you can reduce usage of ABS. In one word, better braking equals faster times. At the beginning, it may not feel right, but give it some time and get used to the new braking force. I can guarantee you your corner entering times will get faster and stage times as well.


Deadzones explanations.

Clutch 60% deadzone at top to make sure you always engage or disengage the clutch fully and quick.
Brake 5% deadzone at bottom to make sure you don't accidently brake for no reason.
Throttle 5% deadzone at top to make sure the throttle is fully pressed when needed.

If you are a "heavy-footed" person, you should use curve with slow signal input for throttle. This way, you can avoid loosing traction on the exit from the corner. Especially advisable when no TC in use.



*If you are using heel and toe technique, do not enable the throttle auto-blip option.



*Linear preset is too aggressive when yellow spring is in use


*Under development

---

Before we jump into the game, please go to AC Rally and disable steam inputs. In some cases, it destroys FFB completely.


In the game, select INPUTS and adjust everything as shown below, and you are ready to go. Remember to set your steering angle correctly. It must be the same in Moza Pit House and in the AC Rally for a good experience. FFB Gain is set to 105 . The main reason to set 105 FFB is to keep R5 from overheating and minimal clipping. At the moment, I recommend staying around 105 FFB in a game. The steering angle is set to 540 to stay as close to the real car steering angle. In-game assists keep OFF so you can control everything by yourself. Hope this helps feel the game as good as it can.

---