We will assume here that you've just bought the game and started playing it right now, and that you've also gone into the menu and joined the server already from the "enlist" tab.

Now what you need to do in order to start your tanking career is click on the middle option where it's says "armor" like in the picture -



After which it will ask you what type of tank crew you want to make exactly, open or closed.



The Open type means that anybody can join your tank crew, the closed one means that people will need to request access to enter the crew from the tank commander (you).

If you don't know anybody or have any friends to play with I suggest you make an open crew at first to get the hang of the game at first, later down the line when you've met people or don't feel comfortable letting just anyone in you can make a closed crew.

There are 3 types of maps in my opinion, tank-dominant which feature open terrain suitable for vehicle maneuvers, tank-friendly which have both urban and open terrain and unfriendly maps which are heavily forested or urban, I will try to list here along with some tips for each specifically -


El Alamein - DE vs UK, open desert with lots of high vantage points.



Foy - DE vs US, open with lots of room to flank, mostly flat with some cover.



Kursk - DE vs SU, open hilly terrain with some houses spread out in the middle with a helpful guide to navigate the many spread-out trenches in which you can get stuck by accident.




Driel- DE vs UK, large bridge in the middle, open flanks with some hedgerows and houses.



Kharkov - DE vs SU, lots of open area with some houses spread out in villages.



Purple Heart Lane - DE vs US, main road in the middle of the map, open flanks with rivers.



Remagen - DE vs US, bridge in the middle, mountainous terrain on the German side.



Sainte-Marie-du-Mont - DE vs US, hedgerow country with some roads.



Sainte-Mère-Église - DE vs US, large town in the middle and top, filled with hedgerows outside.



Stalingrad - DE vs SU, urban jungle with height advantage on the German side.



Utah Beach - DE vs US, mostly hedgerow country with a small town in the middle.




Carentan - DE vs US, urban jungle with only the bottom being suitable for tanks.



Hill 400 - DE vs US, mostly hilly terrain with narrow paths not ideal for tanks at all.



Hürtgen Forest - DE vs US, heavily forested with few narrow paths ripe for ambush.



Omaha Beach - DE vs US, cliffs on the US side with both urban and hedgerow country inland.

We will look at this section with the help of some rather funny, albeit very true, community made comics by MoscaTnT.



Don't solo-tank, if you can avoid it.

Solo-tanking means trying to crew a tank all by yourself which as you might have already guessed, will end up with you being dead most of the time, especially if you're in a heavy tank which has the slowest seat switch speed of all of the tanks.

Ask a friend to join you or open your tank crew up for random people from your side, most servers also don't allow solo-tanking as well.

Also don't just sit in a Tiger or 76 Jumbo at your base waiting for a friend, if there's a full crew there waiting just give them the tank instead, you can probably get another one while your buddy shows up anyway.



Don't drop supplies on the road.

Squad Leaders/Support people, we get it and we understand you that sometimes you don't really have any other option, however there are maps like Hertgen Forest, Hill 400, Carentan and other such urban or forested maps where the roads are very narrow and limited and there's sadly no where to go around them.

So keep in mind that you're preventing armored support from getting to where it needs to go when you place your supplies on the road.



Don't be an ass to new players.

I know it's easy to just let your frustrations out on the new guys but I also think it's important to remember, we were all once new as well.

Especially when it comes to tanking few people are willing to be a driver for a example so if someone wants to drive, or gun, or command, let them and teach them along the way so they can fix their mistakes and become better players and maybe along the road you can also become better.



Don't belittle people coming over from other games.

Battlefield is probably the most popular First Person Shooter (FPS) game series that has vehicles which I can think of so obviously there's going to be a lot of people that have played it and for whatever reason decided to try out Hell Let Loose as well so again as with the new players just stay calm and take them through the game. They will most likely adapt and if they have a good enough experience they might even stick around and you'll earn a new crewman as well.



Don't presume that anybody owes you anything.

The Commander apart from leading the team and calling in supplies and using his air abilities also calls in your vehicles but his resources are limited and sometimes there's just so much the guy can do.

So don't give him a hard time, encourage engineers to build nodes and when I say that I don't mean ordering somebody do it or fighting with their squad leaders over it. In the end if nobody is willing or able it's not rare for us to go as an infantry squad and build our own resource nodes to help the team out. Also don't teamkill people over vehicles, ask politely what and where you want it and more often than not the Commander will spawn it for you, provided of course that the resources are available and that it's not on cooldown as well. And of course, there will also be the times where the Commander doesn't speak English, doesn't talk and so on and so forth.

There are some structures in the game buildable by Engineers which act as a lifeline for tanks and their crews sometimes -



Namely these can be a Garrison or Airhead to spawn on in case you died while repairing your tank for example. The cost 50 supplies and are deployed by Infantry Officers and the Team Commander.



A Repair station to do what I just talked about but automatically and without you needing to get out. Costs 100 supplies are are built by engineers.



Barricades, especially the Tier 3 concrete German ones and Tier 1 bunkers also make for good hulldown positions for your tank.



And of course the all important Fuel Node which gives you the resources necessary to get your tanks. They cost 50 supplies and are once again built by engineers.



The Ammo depot is another extremely useful friendly structure located in your HQs, that is provided you're not on the attacking side of an Offensive game mode map where you won't have these. They're the only source of ammunition to restock your vehicles with so just keep that in mind, plus they can also repair as well.

This is why it's important to keep your engineers safe and to try and work with them as they can also repair you, along with the structures that they build. In dire needs however it's not too uncommon for tank crews to switch over to infantry and do it themselves as well.

We will go over these so you can keep in mind about potential threats to your tank outside of enemy such in least to most deadly order -


Tank traps are passive defenses built by engineers made to block your movement and most likely funnel you into a kill zone. You cannot destroy them normally, even with HE so they either need to be dismantled or satcheled by you guessed it, your friendly neighborhood engineer. They cost 50 suppplies and you will not see them often but if you do they'll probably be in in places such as streets and roads, especially on urban or forested maps such as Carentan and Hürtgen respectively with most likely the idea of making you go around into an ambush.


Mines are a bit more active defenses in that they can damage and even destroy your tracks, almost immobilizing you to a standstill and reducing you to only your 1st and Reverse gears until you repair the tracks even a little bit. So look out for oval shaped big disks on the ground, pancakes, tuna cans, boxes in the case of the Soviets and so forth which are usually placed on roads because that's where the most traffic is expected of course, mostly in enemy territory but sometimes in friendly as well. You can destroy them with a round from the main gun but make sure there are no friendly around because you'll kill them as well.



Starting with the PTRS-41 we come to the handheld anti-tank weapons.
It's a giant 14.5mm AT rifle capable of punching holes even in the heaviest of tanks, mostly due to balance reasons because in reality it could only penetrate the weak side and rear armor of Panthers and Panzer IVs among other lighter armored vehicles. It also has a very fast firing speed and a 6 round magazine with a relatively quick reload so just keep that in mind. You will know that you're getting hit by one if you're on an Eastern Front map against the Soviets and your health is getting chipped away at, quickly. Death by a thousand paper cuts, as they say. The British have their similar Boys AT Rifle but with a slower firing speed so I'm not even going to bother making it it's own section.



The PIAT or Projector, Infantry, Anti Tank, is a portable spigot mortar system like that of the Churchill AVRE, but for tank destroying purposes rather than bunker busting such. In the game it's the British Force's bigger handheld AT cousin to the Boys AT rifle. What you need to know is that it's like a mini-mortar and it's shots have an even bigger arc than that of the RPGs so watch out.



The Bazooka is an American rocket propelled grenade launcher, or RPG for short as you'll most often hear it in the game, capable of punching very big holes in even heavy tanks and can destroy them in 2 shots to the back so you need to be extremely careful and quickly dispatch them if you see them. It's not rare for tank commanders equipped with SMGs to jump out in order to defend their tank from AT infantry at the sides or back.



The Panzershreck, named after our favorite DreamWorks swamp monster, was in real life an even more capable bazooka with a longer range firing 8.8cm rockets. In the game however it's similar to the bazooka in pretty much ever stat so everything that I said above applies here as well. Also that gun shield is not going to protect much as well.


Anti-tank guns, or simply AT guns for short as you'll most likely often hear them in the game, are once again an active defensive structure that costs 50 supplies and are built by engineers. They can penetrate even heavy tanks and have a fast reload when fully crewed, however they cannot be moved and each shot costs 5 munitions so they cannot fire infinitely. More often than not they will be positioned badly and will be manned by a single person, most likely the engineer that built them. Very rarely will they be in a very good spot and manned by 2 people but they still remain a force to be reckoned with so they should be considered a high priority target after tanks and be dealt with as quickly as possible. The good thing however is that HE will do the job and their gun shields don't protect the crew much, especially from the back and sides apart from small arms fire.



Satchel charges are like bigger sticky grenades deployed by engineers so if you see someone running at your tank with a bag in his hands, you know what to do. Fuses are short, from 30, 60 to 120 seconds depending on the setting but most likely it's more often than not going to be the first option so you will need to act fast. They can destroy you in one shot but the good news is that they can also be dismantled in just a few short seconds, just make sure you dispatch any enemy infantry around you unless you want to get shot. Similar to RPG infantry, watch your sides and rear, also listen to a sizzling sound which is how you will know that there is a satchel placed on you.


Artillery and Commander abilities are arguably your biggest threat, again outside of enemy tanks. The reason why I say this is because apart from moving out of the way there's no other effective way of countering them. Good news is however that they cost a lot of munitions and have large cooldowns so unless the enemy team have a large stockpile and ammunition nodes they won't be able to call them in every 5 minutes or so. Here is the break down on the types and costs -

Artillery similar to AT guns costs 3 munitions to fire, and 2 for smoke rounds and can damage you if it lands a rare direct hit but will not destroy you in one shot so you have time to move. At the most it's a hindrance that can damage your trucks and maybe turret, like rain falling on rocks.

The Recon run costs 150 munitions and has a 5-minute cooldown, the reason why I'm mentioning it here is because besides the enemy marking you this can also pick you up as a diamond on the map so remember to not stay in one place for too long or they'll find and bomb you to hell.

The Bombing run and Katyusha barrage cost 300 ammunition, but the former has a 10 minute cooldown while the latter 5. The bombing run will kill you if it lands several direct hits but that's rare and you can sometimes spot the plane before it drops it's payload so you have a few seconds to move out of the way.

The Precision Strike costs 250 munitions and has a 20-minute cooldown and will destroy you in one shot. However if you get hit by this thing it probably means that you're standing in one spot for too long so it's also a welcomed wake up call in my opinion and a valuable lesson as well.

So the key takeaway from all of this is that you should find a good spot with cover, watch your flanks and rear, keep an eye out for enemy planes in the sky and also use your hearing as well. Lastly, even if you have the perfect position, don't stay too long in one spot or you will get bombed.

Armored vehicles in HLL have 3 seats, Driver, Gunner and Commander which somewhat go in the same way in terms of importance to the survival and effectiveness of the tank and it's crew but we will discuss each individual role in it's own dedicated section below.

For now I will just go over the Commander and Crewman loadouts -



The above is the Commander's default loadout, it usually has a sub-machine gun as a primary weapon, a pistol as a side-arm or secondary weapon, a bandage with 2 uses, a spade for close-combat melee fighting and of course, your binoculars which are useful for scouting around when you're not inside your tank or if you find higher ground like a church tower for example which is occupied by friendly forces, of course.



The secondary loadout or "mechanic" is locked behind level 3 so you will need some experience before you can get it but it's basically the same as the above, except that it only features a pistol instead of a sub-machine gun as a firearm but it gives you a blowtorch in exchange so you can repair your own tank which is pretty useful if you're the do it yourself type, just keep in mind having someone on the lookout for enemy threats such as armor is generally a good idea while repairing. Alternatively you can keep the SMG for defense against those satchel or RPG boyos that might try to sniff around your back and let someone else do the repairing instead but it will be up to you to decide and circumstances, like for example if your crewmates don't have the mechanic loadout with the blowtorch unlocked or equipped.



Continuing on to the crewman, he pretty much has the same default loadout minus the SMG that the commander gets.



Same for the blowtorch equipped secondary mechanic loadout which is again locked behind level 3 of the role, oh and 2 smoke grenades so you can act and look like the "kool" kids with their vapes.

This is more or less it as far as the loadouts go, I was also thinking of including pictures of the other nations but they don't differ much except for their weapons, each faction using it's own versions of both the SMG and Pistol.

A minor mentions but these will serve you when you're, rarely, outside of your tank.

For the most part the Tank Commander has access to both a sub-machine gun as his primary weapon and a pistol as his secondary in the default loadout and only a pistol in the secondary "mechanic" loadout. Crewmen have just their sidearms to rely on.

Each respective nation have their own versions of these weapons.

There are also several types of additional equipment which we will discuss here in alphabetical order which might help you in the long run:

Bandages - Used for healing wounds which you can use twice. Useful if you get shot while repairing or defending your tank from infantry.

Binoculars - Used by the Tank Commander to spot, these will mostly be relegated to scouting if you find a better safe vantage point other than your tank periscope such as a higher building or church tower.

Smoke grenades - 2 uses, useful when you're outside of your tank and need to blind the enemy to your presence, just try and don't blind yourself as well while you're at it of course. Suggested use is to pop one to make a smoke screen in front of you and try to reverse to get out of your position before the enemy starts firing to try and hit you.

Blowtorch - Extremely useful for repairing your own tank while outside, it's highly recommended that you try to unlock the secondary "mechanic" loadout with this tool as soon as possible when you reach role level 3 and remember to equip it. Keep in mind that you will be vulnerable and occupied while repairing so seek cover behind the tank in a prone position if possible.

As mentioned previously in the crew roles section, one could say that the driver is definitely up there in terms of being detrimental to the survival and effectiveness of the entire tank.

If you're not paying attention to the road and hit a mine it will destroy the tracks which will leave you stuck in first gear and that's not easily repairable under fire, especially when fighting enemy tanks. Or if you get the vehicle stuck somewhere in a ditch and you can't get out easily which often happens with the Recon. I think you can see the point and where all of this is going, a good driver means not dying and being stuck most of the time, which also translates to you being successful and having fun so pay attention to your surroundings and listen to the commander's navigational directions because he most likely has a better view of the area up there.



Now that we have that out of the way, some basic tips to get you started -

First thing is first, when you get inside of the tank's driver seat you will immediately know it by the icon and your controls which should look like this -



Bottom is the compass with the bearings which I'm guessing you already know if you've played infantry in the game, knowing North, East, South and West besides just left and right in terms of directions are going to be extremely helpful.

Next above it are the vehicle's health bars more on which we will expand later in a different section, and above it the tank's cannon orientation in comparison to the rest of the body.

On the right of those we have the RPM meter with the gear indicator and speedometer respectively which are your most important tools as a driver for operating the vehicle.

Now going a bit more in detail here, as you can see the basic controls are listed in your bottom right corner where it says that Left Shift and Left Control go up and down the gears respectively while pressing and holding down the "E" key starts and stops the engine that you can also remap from your settings and which you will mostly be using once you get into a vehicle, when preparing an ambush so you want to be silent, when the engine was taken out and was fully repaired and when somebody else jumps in the driver seat before you to start the tank and then hops out which sometimes bugs it out and the engine sound is there but it's not switched on.

The gears go as follows -

4th Gear
3rd Gear
2nd Gear
1st Gear
Park - This is the state in which the vehicle spawns once you get inside it.
Reverse

Your view is pretty limited like I mentioned in the beginning and the transmissions of everything but the Recon vehicles is manual, so if you know how to drive a manual in real life that knowledge might come in handy here.

You can immediately shift to first gear even before the engine is on which is usually what I do to save time, then you make your way up the gears by making sure that you don't go under 20 RPM or the tank will stall and you will have to go back to first gear again and start all over so just make sure to never shift unless the RPM meter arrow is not on the right of it's 12 o'clock position as an easy reminder.

The game's basic controls still apply here, A is left, D is right, W is gas and S is the brake or reverse in automatic transmission vehicles like the Recon and space is the handbrake however. If you imagine yourself driving a car pressing on the W key is like hitting the gas pedal and pressing on the S or space is like stepping on the brakes. If you only press W without being in gear you will just be revving up the engine without doing anything, same with letting it go, the vehicle loses powers and you come to a full stop at some point once it loses all momentum so again, all that basic knowledge of driving a manual vehicle in real life applies to here as well, in a more artificial manner of course. And don't forget to press W when you're in reverse because that's once again, the gas, this ain't Battlefield.

1st gear has the most torque so it's useful for getting out of ditches, craters and trenches and also the easiest for turning.

2nd gear we mostly use to advance when we're cautious because we don't know what might be lurking out there but can also be used for turning.

3rd gear is the most stable so if you're still unsure of what's out there but need to move it's a balanced approach, slower tanks like the Tiger can also do a somewhat sharp turn in this gear as well.

4th gear is when you want to be a speedy boy, as in most of the time that is. Great for moving around but unless the gunner has a sixth sense it would be extremely hard for him to hit anything if both your vehicle and the enemy are moving in this gear and at high speed of course.

Park and Reverse are pretty self-explanatory I believe so I don't see much reason to talk more about them. I'll just mention that you should consider the Reverse gear the same as 1st, very useful for turning especially in tight areas.



Also don't reverse if you're being repaired, since you are limited to watching around only a very narrow 90 degree angle in front you can and should pay more attention to the components' health unlike the gunner and commander.

If you see the health going up, either don't move or warn the person or people repairing you that you need to move immediately. And don't forget ask if you're bumping into something when reversing.

Last thing that I will mention is that most tanks have a controllable hull MG for the Driver, and I say most because currently the Recon vehicles and the Firefly don't feature this so just keep it in mind. To shoot it you simple just press left click and it should fire in the general direction in which you're looking at, for a bit more of a visual guide on where that is exactly you have a little white box on the right with a small dot in it which is barely visible, but still better than nothing.

To end this section I will just say this, experience is the name of the game here. The more you drive the better you will become at it and get the hang of the controls. And remember that we all started as noobs, I myself wasn't the best when I first picked up the game several years ago and I'm not shamed to admit it since I'm really not used to driving manual transmission vehicles in video games. And again, remember to listen to the Commander, he might see something that you don't.

Gunning is a bit easier than driving since you don't need to pay as much attention to your surroundings, but at the same time you also need to be calm and have a precise aim, especially if you plan on firing, and hitting something, while on the move.

The same basic principles apply here as before, keep up communications with the rest of your crew and especially the driver because him moving even a little bit might mess up your shot while the commander will give you targets, their type and distance among other possible information.



The above is your basic view, for the record each nation and tank might have it's own sight so I won't show them all here but this is the Tiger's 88mm gun sight which we will be using as an example.

The information provided on the right of it is always the same however, 1st type of round is AP, meaning Armor-Piercing for enemy tanks, 2nd type is HE, or High Explosive meant for structures and other soft targets such as trucks and are also surprisingly effective against Recon vehicles as well as tank tracks if you want to gut someone's mobility. A 3rd type of round that you might have sometimes on certain tanks such as the Shermans with the 75mm guns is smoke, useful for providing cover for an infantry assault or blinding the enemy to make an escape like Fury did against the Tiger.



A note on high-explosive as well is that you don't necessarily need to see the target in order to hit it because of the shell's large explosive radius.

Controls are the same as before but this time for the gun and turret only, A moves the gun left, D to the right, W up and S down.

However you also have the option to zoom here as well like it says on the bottom right of the picture, using middle mouse button you can zoom in or out. Zooming in gives you a better picture of where you're trying to aim but reduces aiming speed, zooming out gives you a wider area to view for potential targets and is also faster to aim with. There is also the "precision aim" which is activated once you press and hold Left Shift if you need to slow down your aim even more for a more precise shot.

And left mouse button is to fire the main gun, right mouse button is to fire the secondary co-axial machine gun. Keep in mind friendly fire is on for the infantry so you will kill them if you fire near them, but you don't do any damage to friendly vehicles which was disabled due to griefing.

Lastly as you may notice once you first get inside a vehicle, the main gun chamber is empty, unless somebody else was in the seat before you and loaded a round that is.

So once you first get inside a vehicle at the start your job is to press "R" like normal with the infantry and load in a round, we usually do AP just to be safe and ready for any potential enemy tanks that we might encounter and always have it loaded while we're moving.

Also do note that once you load a round you cannot unload it and need to fire it in order to load another type, so for example if you're fighting infantry but have AP loaded, you need to "dump" it as we call it and then load. Another thing is that it's always a good idea to communicate your intention of switching rounds to your teammates, especially the commander who might spot an enemy tank right before you decide to switch rounds.

"Heavy is the head that wears the crown."

Now this might be a bit on the "autocratic" side of things but I need to make it clear, while I see a lot of people calling this role "The Spotter" or "Periscope guy" it usually goes beyond that.
This seat is most likely occupied by the Squad Leader, thus he has access to the command voice channel or as I like to call it, the "voices in your head". Meaning that your attention needs to be on 4 things if not more, your surroundings, your tank and crew, the command chat and the map.

This is more of a psychological role than a direct one, you don't physically do anything as opposed to the Driver and Gunner who either drive or gun, respectively. Your job here is to keep up communications between your crew and the rest of the team and make decisions which might be detrimental to your failure or success. You have the best view of the battlefield up top with your periscope and thus you might need to tell your driver where the best route to go through and which is the best spot to park your tank, and your gunner of any potential targets or what type of round he needs to load because again, their views are limited compared to yours.

Lingo is important here as well, the words you use need to be short, precise and to the point because you won't have time for long sentences, the scene in Fury where they're attacking an MG and AT gun position through a field is a good example of that but for the sake of simplicity I'll also put it in order here -

Halt, target, bearing, traverse gun left or right.

Provided you are moving the first command is for your driver to stop the vehicle so the gunner can focus, second command makes it clear what type of target it is, light, medium or heavy tank, AT gun, infantry that are hiding in a building for example and so on and so forth. 3rd command is the bearing which everybody can see at the bottom of their screen on the compass, 4th command isn't necessary but it would help newer gunners on where they should turn if they're not accustomed to the bearings yet and I think saying gun is important because if you just say traverse the driver might turn the entire tank instead. To avoid that it's often good to say the crewman and maybe even they're name as I like to do and then the command, so that would make it sounds like something such as this -

"Mike, turn left here" or "Jack, traverse gun right", I think you get the idea.



The above is usually your view and again like the gunner you have the option to zoom in and out using your middle mouse button. There is also the default spotting state which is inside the turret but it's only good for quickly zooming out to get in the same direction as the gunner in case of an emergency and nothing much else so I won't go into it any longer.

While scrolling with your middle mouse button zooms you in and out, pressing on it brings up the "command" or "ping" menu -



Or if you click on the map, this version shows up instead -



Remember that while all pings can be seen by your squad or crew, only certain markers like those that are in blue can be seen by the team commander and the other officers, green markers are only for your squad.



Lastly, infantry and tank cooperation is important so both sides need to work together in order to win so assuming you know more than the other person or thinking that they're trying to sabotage you is just going to end up costing you the match. Talk it out and try to cooperate, this is a game where we're all in it together to have fun so trying to boss each other around ain't gonna yield any good results in the long run.

So a quick recap of your responsibilities as a commander to end this section. The seat should usually be taken by the Tank Commander that created the tank crew, very rarely would this be an exception unless of course it's a less than 3 man crew. Your main job is to communicate, to both your tank crew and the rest of your team's leaders as well as the team commander, the what, the where and why will mean victory or defeat on the battlefield. And lastly, keep a cool head and remember to not panic. You got hit? Try to see from where and return fire if possible, if not pull back to a safer area. An objective is getting overrun? You need to decide whether or not you should abandon your current position and relocate, either to defend, attack or do a tactical retreat to a better defensive area.

The choices that you make will have an impact so just keep that in mind at all times.

Next you will need to find yourself a vehicle, currently there are 4 types of proper armored combat vehicles in the game excluding the halftracks which are armored personal carriers that anyone can drive and only have MGs so I won't mention them here -



Recon vehicles are armored cars for the most part which are very fast due to being light but also very fragile because of their lack of armor or heavier type weapons, at the most having from 37mm to 50mm guns and a co-axial machine gun which is not really enough to take on even the light tanks in the game from the front altho they could theoretically do so in real life. They also have an automatic transmission and can carry 2 additional infantry passengers in the back.

Each team has 1 of these spawn on one of the HQs and they can only penetrate other armored vehicles from the side the rear and the amount of shots it takes to destroy again depends on the where they are hitting with the rear being the weakest.



Light tanks are more used for infantry support and flanking rather than anything else, before the Recon vehicles were added they also served the purpose of fast scouts.

Each team has 1 of these spawn on one of the HQs and they can only penetrate Recon vehicles from the front, except for the Luchs, every other armored vehicle will require shots either to the side and rear to destroy and again the amount will depend on the side with the rear being the weakest.



Medium tanks are the backbone of your team's tank arm, they are the most numerous and balanced of all of the tanks in terms of speed, armor and armament being versatile enough to tackle most threats they face, albeit they cannot penetrate most heavy tanks from the front so they will need to flank as well for that.

Each team has 1 of these spawn on one of the HQs. They can reliably penetrate other mediums as well as light tanks and recon vehicles from the front, but they will either need to hit heavies from the side or rear in order to penetrate and destroy them with the rear being the weakest and requiring the least amount of shots to do so.



Heavy tanks are the biggest and toughest vehicles in the game with superior armor and armament albeit they are lacking in the speed department a little bit, except for the Panther, so you will need to be careful with the routes you take and how much you advance as over-extending with these tanks means almost certain death if you don't have proper infantry support with you to guard your flanks.

These tanks do not spawn by default and are needed to be instead called in by the Team Commander for a very hefty price. They can penetrate and destroy everything else besides other heavy tanks from the front in 1 shot. For heavies they require 2 shots to the side and rear in order to destroy.

Components serve as damage modules and basically health bars for your tank so you have a relative idea of where you're being hit and maybe even how exactly if you learn what each weapon can inflict.

There are 4 of these as follows -



The hull module allows you to see the overall damage state of your vehicle, if this is being damaged then you're most likely being hit from the from the front or sides. This does not have a fully red state, it reaching zero means that you're going to be destroyed.



The turret module once fully destroyed in the dark red state will disable the gunner's co-axial machine gun from firing and it will also slow down the turret turning significantly as well, repairing it just a little bit however will grant both of these capabilities back.



The engine being damaged most likely means that something is hitting you from the back, depending on circumstances it might be a good idea to turn around or if it's an enemy infantry dismount in an attempt to deal with him if possible and safe enough.



And lastly the tracks being damaged means that you either hit a mine or something is specifically hitting your tracks for one reason or another, be it to purposefully disable your mobility or because they only have HE available. Either way once fully destroyed you can only go in 1st and Reverse gears until even a little bit is repair, granting you back full mobility which is useful if you're under heavy enemy fire and need to get out of there quickly but can hop out and quickly repair with your blowtorch before hopping back in before you die.

After suffering at the hands of the British tanks during the First World War, the Germans sought to quickly learn from their mistakes and previous inadequacies in terms of AT weaponry as well as tank designs as they only really had around 20 A7Vs which were basically overcrowded boxes on tracks with poor cross-country mobility due to their shape and size.

They went to great lengths after the war, especially during the 30s, in order to rebuild their military in secret. Studying innovations and tactics from the British and in particular J. F. C. Fuller's concepts of armored warfare as well as the idea of the Experimental Mechanized Force (EMF) and also a shared tank development program with the Soviets who allowed them to build and test tanks and other armored vehicles on their territory in return for investments which proved invaluable to the strategic minds of higher staff officers such as Heinz Guderian who would go on the develop what we know as "Blitzkrieg" tactics that were used during the early war by the Germans and would also shape our current understanding of mobile warfare.

The Puma is a "heavy" armored car armed with a 50mm long barreled cannon and paper thin armor. It's part of the Sd.Kfz. 234 family of 8 wheeled vehicles and was mostly meant for fast recon but it could also engage enemy light and medium armor if absolutely needed. It's very fast and adept at flanking as well as scouting due to it's "recon" function that the commander has which can screenshot an area to show enemies on the map much like the Team Commander air recon ability.

If you plan on being aggressive with it then be prepared to die, a lot, because one shot anywhere except the wheels from anything barring AT rifles will destroy you. Being able to transport 2 more people in the back as passengers is useful can be used for a wide range of tasks and combinations such as an officer and support for a quick garrison somewhere, or a support and engineer for a fuel node, or an engineer and AT for tank destruction duties.

The Luchs was a Panzer II derivative that was meant for light armored recon duties in Panzer Divisions during 1942 but due to it's light firepower and armor only 100 were built as they wanted it to carry the Puma's 50mm gun but the turret couldn't take it. This pillbox on tracks is light and fast, but isn't really useful for anything other than light recon and suppressing enemy infantry.

The rapid-fire 20mm gun was originally meant for AA so it's adept at killing infantry and maybe light vehicles at the most but it won't do anything more to heavier tanks other than daze them. However you can still shoot and damage, as well as ultimately destroy their tracks if you're in a good position and they don't spot you before that of course.

The Panzer IV is the medium workhorse of the German forces both in real life and the game.
Armed with a 75mm main gun, 2 MGs and good armor plus mobility, it was developed in the 1930s before World War 2 broke out with the intent of supporting the lighter Panzer III in infantry dealing and bunker busting duties with shorter initially 37mm and 75mm howitzers before they had to up-gun them to what we have in the game in order to deal with Soviet armor on the Eastern Front such as the T34.

The variant of the tank in the game is the Ausf. G which was initially called the F2 and had bolted on armor plates apart from having the same gun. The Ausf. H would be the well known version with the Schürzen armored skirts that American tankers confused with Tigers on the Western Front, just mentioning as a small historical snippet because historically there were no Tigers in the American sector of operations during the Invasion of Normandy, plus you can also wow your friends with some fun facts.

Anyway, this is the most potent tank that spawns at the start of the match so whoever gets it first will carry the burden of destroying the enemy's medium on their shoulders so just keep that in mind. I'm mentioning this because it's vital to secure armor dominance as early as possible, you have the potential to deal a serious blow to the other side early on and vice versa which might spell how the rest of the game will go depending on circumstances such as how good your infantry is, if fuel nodes are built and so on and so forth. It's like a domino effect, if you die then your infantry are left without tank support in the first few minutes of the match while their tank is free to reign terror as he pleases unless he's taken out by other means, if possible that is, so no pressure.

Apart from that as a standalone tank the Panzer IV is quite capable in the hands of a good crew, decent mobility, firepower and armor means that you can fight other mediums head on, provide infantry support and also flank if possible and necessary to hit heavier tanks in the sides or rear although with your size and mobility that's not really recommended because you will most likely get quickly sighted and dispatched unless the enemy is distracted and you're properly supported. So try avoiding a fight with heavier tanks because they will make short work of you. Keep your targets to your own level and if possible spot and alert the rest of the team of heavier enemies, if all else fails however and you have no other choice then a cheeky dive for the rear of an enemy Jumbo, IS1 or Firefly might be worth it, again depending on circumstances unless you can hide yourself well enough for a long range shot.

First initially designed as heavy breakthrough vehicle before becoming a unified replacement for the Panzer III and Panzer IV fleets of medium tanks known as the VK30.01 back in 1937 which had 4 different competing firms involved in the project, those being Henschel, Porsche, Daimler-Benz and lastly MANN. Henschel and Porsche's versions would later evolve into the VK45.01 project that would eventually become the "Tiger", while DB's version of the tank looked very similar to a T34 but more Germanized, with a diesel engine, transmission at the back and a smaller body as well as turret but due to production difficulties it was dropped and instead MANN's version was accepted and would become what we now know as the Panzerkampfwagen V "Panther".

With the Ausf. D's first combat debut in 1943 during Operation Citadel and the Battle of Kursk, it didn't perform very stellar due to a rushed production so it still had a lot of teething issues, namely a weak transmission, which would later be somewhat solved in subsequent Ausf. A and Ausf. G versions, the latter having eliminated the turret shot trap with a "chin" mantlet that you may notice on the model and would become something that many people consider the best tank of the war and might have even contributed a lot to the idea of a universal Main Battle Tank which would later be expanded upon after the war as a concept.

In the game the Panther still continues with it's legendary status due to being a "heavy" tank with the speed, reload time and somewhat a size of a medium which it was previously before it was re-introduced. Meaning that you have the heavy armor and firepower of a Tiger but the speed, reload time and again a closer size to that of a Panzer IV making you into a very fast brawler and arguably the best heavy and overall tank in general in the entire game.

Recommended usage would be fast hit and run tactics, you will most likely be the first heavy tank on the field and being faster than even a medium means that you get to pick and choose when and where the first engagement happens because the enemy's heavy is probably not too far off so you will have to be quick with your decision making and choices. If the enemy's first medium hasn't been taken care of yet that should be your first priority, then moving on to a better position to attack and again remember to use your speed as well as fast reload time. While you can just sit in one spot and take as well as deal punishment like any other heavy, you would be somewhat wasting your potential so keep that in mind, protect your flanks and rear as best as possible and earn your reputation.

First designed in 1937 under the "Durchbruchswagen" program for a heavy breakthrough vehicle capable of destroying enemy defenses such as those of the French Maginot line to support the lighter armed and armored Panzer IIIs and Panzer IVs of the time, the vehicle we see in the game is very different to it's original concept of a 30 ton tank in the form of the VK30.01 which later evolved into the 45 ton VK45.01 and eventually our Panzerkampfwagen VI "Tiger" that Henschel designed and won over the Porsche version.

Weighting in at around 60 tons, armed with a KwK 36 88mm gun and armored with up to 100mm on the front plate, 80mms on the sides and rear of the hull as well as 120mm on the gun mantlet, this box on tracks is a mobile fortress in it's truest form.

This was the very first heavy tank to be added to the game back in 2019 and safe to say everybody and their grandmother wanted to be inside of it because it absolutely wrecked everything in it's path, especially with a capable crew that knew what they were doing much like in real life.

However after the reintroduction of the Panther as a heavy tank since it was a medium in the beginning, the Tiger has been relegated to back line duty as a secondary heavy in the line of German tanks since it no longer has anything over the Panther in terms of raw stats. It's a slow, big box but it still shouldn't be underestimated because it retains it's heavy armor and armament, plus it also has it's shock effect on the battlefield due to it's legendary status in history.

The idea of an American tank corps first bore fruit during World War 1 with people such as George S. Patton who was only at most a Colonel at the time but was very impressed and saw great potential with the few French-made Renault FT17 tanks that were used by the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF). The FT17 would go on to be a mainstay of the tank corps until Patton and other like-minded individuals in the military started being more vocal about the need for indigenous designs after observing developments in other countries such as Britain, France and the Soviet Union.

America came a bit unprepared for the Second World War, during the 30s like pretty much every other major nation they experimented with a lot of different tank designs but most were either light or medium designs bristling with MGs, a staple of US tank doctrine during the war which would also go on until the very end. After the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7th in 1941 and the formal declaration of war, America officially entered the war with mostly an automotive industry equipped to make ordinary civilian vehicles which quickly had to switch gears in order to shift production over to tanks which were capable of checking at the very least the Panzer III and Panzer IV in terms of armor and firepower at the time if not for the Tiger as well which was also present in Africa. The result of the Army's demands were somewhat met in the form of the M3 Lee medium tank which had a 75mm gun mounted in the hull and a 37mm gun mounted in a turret at the top with acceptable armor. It was a stop-gap design that faired well in the deserts of North Africa until it was superseded by the M4 Sherman through lessons learned from the previous design which would go on to become the workhorse and symbol of Allied forces well into the Korean War even.

The M8 Greyhound is a light armored car with the same 37mm gun as on the M5 Stuart and an exceptionally good speed with an automatic transmission, but little to no armor as pretty much anything can destroy it in one shot besides AT rifles. In real life it was meant to provide light recon duties and also had a .50 cal MG mounted on top of the turret in a ring but this has been omitted from the game for gameplay purposes. There was also another variant of it called the M20 Utility car which more often acted as a command vehicle and it's crew also had a bazooka stored inside for AT purposes if necessary.

In the game it acts in a similar role to the Puma in that it can provide light recon, transport 2 people and even flank and fight enemy tanks using it's speed and small size if the crew are cheeky enough. Keep in mind that you might get stuck if the driver isn't careful as the wheels have finnicky hitboxes compared to the tracks of tanks.

The Stuart was a light tank initially meant to arm tank divisions in places such as Africa and Sicily but as the war progressed it was relegated more to recon duties due to it's weak armor and armament before being replaced by the better armed and armored M24 Chaffee. However it's M3A1 model saw wide success in the Pacific with the Marines against the Japanese due to their lack of bigger tanks and it also has a famous flamethrower version called the "Satan". Another variant was the M8 Scott Howitzer Motor Carriage armed with a short barreled 75mm howitzer.

The Stuart is a bit of an oddball when it comes to light tanks in the game because it's quite capable in the right hands but at the same time it's still a light tank. What I mean by that is that while it may have the speed of the M8 Greyhound, it trades a manual transmission for a bit more armor in a sense so you will have to pick your poison when to comes down to choosing which of the two you'd prefer to use for flanking actions. We've had much success going in the rear of Tigers, but with something like the Panther and it's speed along with turning radius I'd much rather prefer the Greyhound because it's much more nible due to it's automatic transmission. You shouldn't have much trouble against a Luchs however and you can somewhat also reliable deal with Panzer IVs if you go in their flanks or preferably rear again.

The Sherman is an evolution of the M3 Lee developed in 1941 which saw service in Africa before being replaced by our boy here. It was also the most produced Allied tank of the war with some 50,000 something units in total with all variants and was practically used by all sides and on all fronts, including the British and Soviets through lend-lease with the Germans putting captured ones in their own service. It's peak version would be the M4A3E8 "Easy 8" which the main tank in the movie Fury is based on and would go on to fight even during the Korean War in that form surpassing the M26 Pershing in some aspects. Pretty impressive for such a quickly developed tank.

In the game it acts as the starter tank for the US and is the equivalent of the Panzer IV, having relatively the same amount of armor and firepower but a bit less ammunition and access to smoke rounds which are useful if you're in a pinch against Panthers and Tigers.

The Jumbo was a heavily armored variant of the standard M4A3 Sherman, hence the "E" part of the name standing for "Experimental" with only 252 being produced and sent to a few Armored Divisions such as the the 3rd, 4th and possibly 2nd. It was meant to provide heavy armored support to infantry against fortifications and was used as the point tank in many assaults since it was one of the only few Allied tanks at the time capable of shrugging off the German 75mm and 88mm shells with little to no kinks in the armor apart from the hull machine gun port and gunner sights.

The particular model in the game, the "Cobra King" was part of the 4th Armored Division which spearheaded Patton's 3rd Army and was the first tank to relieve the surrounded 101st Airborne Division, also known as "The Battered Bastards of Bastogne", during the Battle of the Bulge.

In the game much like in real life it acts as a great damage sponge for medium and light tanks as well as RPGs frontally but has weaker side and rear armor and cannot damage enemy heavy tanks to the front.

So much of what was discussed previously in the M4A3 Sherman section would apply here because both tanks use the same gun, this just has a bit more ammo, is slower and more expensive but also has a lot better armor. Just keep in mind not to engage Panthers and Tigers frontally and you should be fine, use the smoke rounds if you find yourself in a pinch once again.

The "Nice n' Easy" is a variant of the M4A3E2 Sherman "Jumbo" armed with a 76mm long barreled gun equipped with a muzzle brake at the end to disperse that pesky smoke each time you fire. Historically none of these were factory produced and the roughly 100 of them were in-field modifications carried out by the crews themselves using guns from destroyed or otherwise damaged tanks, with each conversation taking up to 75 man hours to complete mostly due to the different ammunition storage racks as everything else was pretty much meant for the guns.

Other crew field modifications were made as well such as cutting off front armor plates off of destroyed or again otherwise damaged tanks such as Shermans and Panthers to be welded to the front of normal Shermans to create what were known as "Field-expedient Jumbos". And of course placing sandbags as well as pouring concrete but those were mostly for the crews' mental health rather than having any practical use to stop incoming rounds.

In the game it acts much like the previous Jumbo that we discussed in terms of armor and mobility, but otherwise it packs a bigger punch due to the bigger gun which allows you to confidently take on Panthers and Tigers frontally.

Keep in mind that the Panther still has a faster reload and more speed than you so whoever lands the first hit and is in the better position will matter.

The British were the first to design and adopt the tank back in World War 1, however after that they fell a bit out making several unsuccessful designs thinking that there would be more trench warfare style conflicts apart from the Matilda II also known as the "Queen of the Desert" due to it's heavy armor which earned it it's reputation in Africa, the Crusader which was a fast light cruiser tank that also proved it's worth in the deserts, the Churchill which had tremendous hill-climbing capabilities and extremely strong, albeit flat, frontal armor and good firepower and lastly the very successful Centurion which would later go on to be called the first "true" Main Battle Tank (MBT) that was designed during the war but too late to actually serve, earning it's reputation afterwards.

They also had a bit of a different tank doctrine to most other nations, opting to go with a 2 class system in the form of "Infantry" and "Cruiser" tanks, the former would be slower but better armored to support infantry against fortifications for example, while the latter would exploit gaps in the enemy's lines to strike and penetrate even further.

Major-General John Frederick Charles "Boney" Fuller was also one of the leading theorists of mechanized warfare that wanted to test his ideas like with the first ever Experimental Mechanized Force, an idea which would be shot down but that would later get picked up the higher German generals and other staff officers such as Heinz Guderian that would go on to create what we now know as "Blitzkrieg" or "Lighting War" in English, a strategy that was perfected by the fully mechanized US military during the later part of the 20th century known as "Maneuver Warfare".

The Daimler was a light "recce" vehicle as the Brits call it, armed with a 40mm gun also used in the Tetrarch. It was a successful all-terrain armored vehicle design which saw service in both Africa and Europe.

In the game it's pretty much the same as the rest of the Recon vehicles in terms of stats so not much to add there apart from it's different shape and thus also hitbox. The same what was said previously about the other Recon vics also applies here.

The Tetrarch was a light glider-borne tank designed to be dropped from, you guessed it, a glider. It was an ingenious idea to give airborne forces some much needed light armor. Of course it being less than 8 tons also meant there wasn't much room for what a tank needs, namely proper firepower to fight other tanks at the time and armor. It only being equipped with the 40mm gun of the Daimler and paper thin light armor in order to fit the requirements of flying, it had more bark than actual bite in a real battle and proved little to no use besides the shock effect of having a tank literally land from the sky and start shooting at you.

In the game it functions similarly to the Soviet T-70 rather than the Stuart due to it's lack of a hull MG, or the Luchs. Again speed is going to be the name of the game here, using your small profile to try and flank around bigger machines in order to hopefully hit them in the back without getting spotted beforehand because that's your only real chance of success here.

The Cromwell is a bit of an odd design for a tank in 1944, namely due to it's flat armor which is very reminiscent of a 1930s or early war such. Other than that some background information is that due to losing most of their tanks during the 1940 evacuation of Dunkirk and from lessons learned from Africa and other successful tank designs such as the Churchill and Sherman, the Brits decided to make their own indigenous tank armed with a 75mm gun to fill out their Armoured Divisions, however due to low productions many British tank units were supplemented instead by lend-lease Shermans and Cromwells were only relegated to a few more experienced divisions such as the famous "Desert Rats" whom unfortunately met up with Michael Wittmann and his Tiger in Villers Bocage only a few short days after the Invasion of Normandy.

In the game it's on the same level as other mediums but due to it's flat armor like on the Panzer IV there's no need to second guess where to hit it frontally, unlike the Sherman and T34 for example so you will need to be a bit more careful with your flat frontal plate and seek cover. Use your speed to your advantage and flank Panthers and Tigers if possible and necessary although that's going to be a bit hard on the flat desert plains of El Alamein, not so much on Driel however.

The Firefly was an attempt by the British to mount their potent 17 pounder gun on an actual mobile chassis in a turret, unlike the Archer which was based on the Valentine that had to drive in reverse and had a fixed gun. There's a funny meme about how they had extend the hull to fit 5 joined engines in the back and turn the gun sideways in order for the breech to actually open but anyway, the tank was very potent and the gun was probably the best which the Allies had on offer to deal with the heavier German tanks. However it's accuracy fell off a bit short at range, especially when using the experimental APDS rounds.

In game it's arguably the least effective "heavy" tank due to lacking both a hull machine gun to deal with infantry and also having thin enough armor to be penetrated from the front by a Panzer IV. I'm guessing that the Churchill was actually meant to be the British heavy tank which makes sense since it was both in Africa and Europe, but for whatever reason the Firefly, which was actually a Tank Destroyer based on the Sherman medium tank in real life was chosen instead, perhaps due to a lack of assets.

Imperial Russia lacked any sort of proper tanks during the First World War, only having been sent a few Mark Vs from Britain and FT17s from France in order to fight against the Bolsheviks during the 1917 revolution which after the fact ended up with them being captured and used by the communists themselves instead. For the record however they did have a few whacky designs of their own, namely the "Tsar tank" that didn't even see the light of day past a few experiments.

After their failed invasion of Poland in 1920 however the Soviet military sought to improve their armored forces by developing their own tanks and during the 30s designs such as the T-26 as well as the very speedy BT series of tanks started popping up. Apart from just light tanks however the Soviets invested heavily in the concept of multi-turreted designs as well which would produce some monsters such as the T-28, SMK and T-35 which would have their trial by fire during the invasion of FInland in 1939 also known as the "Winter War", being widely unsuccessful in the thick forests with few paths there other than the commander having trouble commanding a 10 man crew while he himself might have acted as a gunner as well. After that the Soviets would go on to look for more "modest" designs like the KV-1 series of heavy tanks and of course the T-34.

This almost civilian looking car mounting a tank turret at the back is part of the Soviet family of BA armored cars that had varying degrees of success, mostly in their invasions before the actual war like in Finland. Used out of desperation, they were replaced in the scouting role by the T-60 and T-70 Light tanks and last seen during the winter fighting of 1941-1942 on the frontlines.

Not much to speak of in the game, it once again pretty much has the same stats as the rest of the Recon vehicles.

Armed with the same gun as on the BA-10 which it was meant to replace, it was a fully tracked light vehicle meant for Recon as it couldn't really fit any other role realistically due to having a 2 man crew, meaning that the commander also played the role of gunner while commanding his driver and god forbid if he was also a platoon or company leader as well. There's also a funny picture going around of it having attached wings and flying.

In the game it's much like the Luchs and Tetrach in terms of size as well as stats and also lacking a hull MG.

The T-34 is an early war design with it's good speed, exceptionally good 76mm gun and revolutionary for it's time sloped armor profile, which while also making the tank cramped inside and very ergonomically uncomfortable for it's crew, meant that it also had improved protection compared to something like the Panzer III and Panzer IV that had flat armor, while also weighing less. A few lesser known details for it are that it's creator died from hypothermia while driving the tank to Stalin during winter because of a lack of heating, it lacked a turret basket meaning that the Commander and Loader had to turn with the turret and walk over both empty shell casings and live rounds on the floor, a 2 man turret with no actual gunner which meant that the Commander also had to fulfil that role, no radio so communication was done with hand signals and flags, an engine plagued by mechanical issues and a stiff gear system meaning that the driver had to either be superman in order to actually drive the tank or use a hammer to knock the gears in among other issues.

In the Soviet doctrine of "good enough" this version of the tank served it's purpose and many of the aforementioned problems were fixed with the T-34/85 variant which had a bigger turret and also gun. It would go on to be the most produced tank in the world with around 85,000 units in total with all models, however around 45,000 were also lost, mostly due to the above mentioned information.

In the game it's probably the best medium tank right now due to it's small profile, sloped armor which might make it difficult to hit for a Panzer IV, faster than usual speed for a medium tank and also plenty of ammo without any of it's real life issues such as the Commander being the Gunner as well.

Use the above to your advantage in the early game, depending on when and if you knock out the first Panzer IV it could mean that you'll have armor dominance for a few good minutes before you can expect the first Panther that will also most likely hit the field which might be a bit of a problem for you since it out-classes you in every single way. So use cover and your speed to hopefully maneuver around to the flanks or rear of the enemy and pray you don't become animal food.

Developed from the KV series of heavy tanks and armed with what would later also be put on the T-34 in the form of it's 85mm gun, the IS-1 was mostly a stop-gap design that saw little to no actual service before the IS-2 with the 122mm gun was actually accepted.

In the game it has the standard stats of a heavy tank but with a long profile and a good armor slope on the front making it sometimes difficult to score a direct hit on at longer range. So use that to your advantage, especially on maps such as Kursk and Stalingrad where the Germans mostly have the high ground advantage in the middle. Use cover to pop out, shoot, and then go back like with the hills and houses on each respective map that I mentioned previously and remember that your back side is a bit longer this time around than other tanks so you have a bit bigger hitbox.

My father was a tank commander and I grew up with movies and TV series such as Kelly's Heroes, Saving Private Ryan and Band of Brothers where tanks might have not played large roles but were still present as large threats and that fueled my interest in history and especially vehicles.

Later I also picked up some electrical and mechanical skills to become a technician as well which further made me appreciate just how much work went into making these machines possible and working, as well as watching a few more tank-oriented movies like The Beast and later Fury and HLL is one of those games that really makes you feel like you're in a tank's seat which inspired me to make this guide in order to fuel the fire in other people to take up tanking as well.

So I hope that I've managed to help both new and old players learn something new and further their interest in tanking and just the game in general because I believe that the game has a lot of potential for tanks and with some minor improvements and adjustments here and there such as s-mine launchers and smoke grenade dispensers among others would really make the vehicle gameplay stand out even more.

Cheers, and I would appreciate some feedback. Constructive criticism as well as ideas and suggestions are always welcome as I'm always looking to improve and lastly click on the link below to join our discord server if you're looking for a tanker community to play and have fun with -

https://discord.gg/6X3eTZB