Hi all,

i decided to make an (amateurish) guide on how to drive German trains more according to real world procedures, as seen on Cab rides, and tips and tricks I've learned over time the web or read up online.

this guide is a WIP, so if any of you wants to add anything or have suggestions, hit me up,let me know.

I have some Summaries at the bottom for those who want to skip the reading.

Starting and braking a train is a challenge for the driver. It is important, on the one hand, to accelerate and brake the train comfortably. On the other hand, care must be taken to ensure that the multiple units / trains and the wagons are kept damage free and wear and tear kept to a minimum.

Starting up and Accelerating, The first steps.

The basic rules when starting a train are almost always the same.
A low traction force of around 10 kN per drive motor is desired, Except on inclines where more effort may be needed. This is intended to "stretch" the train and the wagons, reducing stress on the motors, the couplings and to start it off as smoothly as possible.

In the case of EMU/DMUs, (class 423 etc) the units are firmly coupled so that more force can be applied safely.

After the train has started, the traction force is slowly increased.

As a rule of thumb, 40 to 50 kN should be sufficient.

The maximum permissible tensile forces are usually specified in the operating instructions.

Remember, in the control car, not all the instruments or displays are available to the driver, as on the locomotive. (on the current dostos its not an issue)

An important instrument is the pulling and braking force display which can be Digital as implemented in our current rolling stock or analog, like in the BR101

A little note here. As you can see this older instrument that is showing us Motor Current in kA and not tractive effort in kN.

To be able to use this on locos who use kN between these units there is a little conversion table:

General Considerations

Even when braking, the Driver has to consider several points. In addition to a material-friendly brake control, it is also important here to keep driving comfort at a high level through sensitive and gradual braking.

Sudden braking should always be avoided - except in the event of danger.

When braking, the dynamic brake should preferably be used in order to keep the wear of the friction elements minimal.
We can distinguish between two types of braking:

"Regulatory" Braking and "Stopping" Braking

Regulatory Braking aka i need just to slow down

If the braking force is sufficient and the driving time allows it, just the dynamic brake should be used.

Technically, In order to avoid tension, in the train when braking, the dynamic brake must first be left in a small braking stage until the braking has affected the entire train. Only then should you slowly increase the braking force.

In adverse weather conditions with poor static friction between wheel and rail or ice formation / snow accumulations on the braking devices, brake as early as possible and braking must be combined with the compressed air brake.
In this case, the dynamic brake must be left in a low braking level: The driver then continues to brake primarily with the compressed air brake.

Stopping braking aka.... I need to stop

In order to safely keep stopping at the aiming point and staying within the braking curve, the driver
always uses the pneumatic brake combined with the dynamic brake.

At the start of the braking, if possible,

Hold the brake level on a low setting until the air brake works throughout the train.
If the friction conditions between wheel and rail allow it, the dynamic brake must be fully used when the compressed air brake is active.

In unfavourable weather conditions with poor adhesion, braking should be continued with the air brakes but the dynamic brake should be reduced and in case of wheel slip, sanding being applied.

TL,DR for Locomotive driven consists and generally more older style trains and locos
(BR 146, TRAXX, BR143, BR112, BR114, BR101 Etc.)


Starting and Accelerating

• 10 Kn (more on a slope) per motor in the beginning to get the train moving and stretch the wagons/couplings.
  
• After the train started moving noticeably ( i use 2 to 5 Km/H) 40/50 KN to accelerate. You will need to keep adding power to keep that value.

Braking and Stopping

Slowing down to reduced line speed use Electric brake if not in rain/ice, else use as well the pneumatic brake.
To stop use a gentle first application to let all the couplings compress and then apply brake force. 50 KN are a good starting value.


Notes on freight trains

• On freight trains you will have to wait some time until all the brakes from all the wagons are released, eg. MSB long trains it can take as long as 30 seconds.
  
• On freight trains you will need to plan ahead, like with accelerating, it takes time until all the wagons apply brake pressure.

These EMUs encompasses diverse EMU's that might look very similar to the untrained eye.
They can be driven in a much more sporty way than traditional locos with wagons, due to their close and rigid coupling.
In my experience the driving changes just slightly according to Environment factors and train composition but with the following guidelines you should be good for all sets and conditions.

Startup and Accelerating

• Take a glance over the platform and close the Doors.
  
• Then you can set the regulator to 15 (around notch 9 on the HUD) like shown below.
  
• After a passing 20/30 kph you can slam the regulator to max and rocket away.

https://steamuserimages-a.akamaihd.net/ugc/1792974409749189357/AFF3EF4435B199ED8BBE118C95F2981D19316E9B/?imw=256&&ima=fit&impolicy=Letterbox&imcolor=%23000000&letterbox=false


Braking and Stopping

• Apart from fog and higher speeds (120/140 Km/H) you can pretty much brake when you see the station in the distance.
  
• As a reference, For 120 Km/H around 700 m from the stop marker should be enough, Notch 10 braking (don't be afraid ;)).
  
• Aim to be at 55/60 Km/H before/at the beginning of the platform and then brake at a setting that gives you -100 (usually notch 8).
  
• This should stop you pretty much a few meters from the marker, and gives you enough liberty to modulate your braking should you over/undershoot.

The display of the

Startup and Accelerating

• Just advance the Power indicator to around 40/50% for initial movement.
  
• After passing 40/60 Kp/H advance the lever to full power. (personal techique)

Braking and Stopping

For 160 Km/h start braking on a medium setting around 1200 m from the marker.
For around 120 Km/h you can delay the braking even to 700/600 m.
Again aim to be around 60 km/h at the beginning of the platform, then brake with notch 4 should be perfect, with some room for modulation.


In case of a PZB reduction out of 160 speed to eg. 80 kp/h i found that braking ON the signal you will need at LEAST notch 7 of breaking, wich should be quite uncomfortable for everyone on the train.
I start braking as soon as i see the signal on a moderate (4) setting to then continue down to 85 Km/h

WIP