It should be noted that the original parts of this guide were written way back at the start 2019.

Both the game and this guide have seen numerous changes since then, and there have been plenty of additions and changes to the game, and to this guide in response as a result.

Having this guide walk you through an entire engine build right off the bat seems to have slightly confused a few of the newer players who have maybe read this guide even before buying the game, or right after they bought it and hadn't really got to understand the concept of how the game 'rolls'.
Also some returning players who may have read this guide that maybe played the demo but never bought the game, or who bought the game in it's infancy but then shelved it for a few years and lost touch with the progress the game has made, they too seem to be a little confused once they finally jump in to the game.

So let's clear this one up.

Back in December of 2018 when the game was first released in to Early Access on Steam, and in January of 2019 when I first wrote this guide, it was possible to fully strip and rebuild your own car which you could then rent out on a 'per race' basis after just doing a couple of very basic jobs like oil changes and tyre changes just to help you get a basic feel for the game.
This is why the guide starts off walking you through building a car from scratch.

However, this is no longer the case.

There is now an xp based tier system and an economy system in place, with certain unlockable tools and car parts available based on your current xp and level.
You will also need to have accumulated enough cash to buy the tools and parts once they become available.

You won't have access to all of the tools, or all of the parts you need to build an entire engine right from the word 'go'. You will have to start off slow and build up xp and cash before you can progress to that level.
(As I've been playing since early Jan 2019, and well before any of the new xp system, or unlockable tools and parts became part of the game, I couldn't tell at which level things unlock at. I was already way past any of that by the time these things were introduced, so already had access to everything by the time they were based on my previous play time and experience.)

However, if you've played the tutorial right the way through then you should already have something like 5k in your pocket, so if you take your time and concentrate while doing the first few customer jobs (so as not to mess up and take an xp and cash penalty which will ultimately slow down your progress) then you should have more than enough money to buy the items as they unlock.

So hopefully that makes things a little clearer as to why the guide is written and laid in this way.



Now back to the guide.

It should also be noted that some of the screen shots you may see in this guide contain content that is no longer available in-game as it has been superseded by newer features.
For example, some of the screen shots you will see contain white tablet-style insets with diagrams on them which are from the old 'scanner' system that used to be available in the demo and earlier versions of the game.
This scanner feature has now been removed, but I kept the old screen shots containing these inset diagrams as they are useful to help emphasise what I am trying to explain in the accompanying text.

The old scanner system used to be used to identify parts, and to show torque settings and installation instructions.
However, the HUD at the top of the screen now replaces what the scanner used to do.
It is always available on screen rather than having to dig the scanner out of your tool belt, aim at the part you want information on, and then have to press a button to reveal the info you're after. In that respect it is much more user friendly.
The new HUD system tells you what part you are directly looking at, and if it has an applicable torque setting then this will be shown there too.
The HUD now also lists the current amount of 'wear' of the item you are looking at, but this still a work in progress and not all items currently wear through use.

As for the installation instructions that used to be in the old scanner system, these can now be found in separate set of 'manuals' which can be accessed via the Tablet.
However, please bear in mind that these manuals are still a work in progress, and as such are a little misleading in places.
The devs are aware of this and will update and polish them in time, but there's only two guys working on this whole project so they have to try and prioritise their time and workload accordingly.


I hope this section hasn't bored you too much, but also hope it helps clarify some of the issues that players have been experiencing based on some of the comments I've been receiving recently.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and thanks again for taking the time to read and use this guide.
Please feel free to rate and favourite it if you find it of use.
Your support really is appreciated. :)

This something that a lot of people seem to be struggling with recently, so thought I would add this to the guide.


Engine Stand.

You can raise and lower the height this by grabbing the semi-transparent blue area on top of the stand which surrounds the elongated inverted 'U' shaped hook, as per the screen shot below.

You can also rotate the engine when it's on the stand by grabbing the semi-transparent blue areas covering the handles, and rotating them in the desired direction.
You can rotate it in either direction, and there is no limit as to how far you can rotate it.



Once the engine is free of the chassis and the gearbox has been removed, you will then be able to place it on to your engine stand.
To do this, place your engine stand near to your engine block, then use the context menu to find the option to mount it to the stand.



Admittedly this screen shot shows only the Block and not an entire engine being placed on to the Stand, but this is actually just a copy/paste from the next section where I run through building the bottom end of an engine. The process is exactly the same either way though.


To remove the engine from the stand, just grab the block and it will come free.

Just be aware that it can be quite easy to accidentally grab the block unintentionally and remove it from the stand if you're not fully paying attention. I know, I've done it plenty of times!
Luckily I've never done it with loose parts in the engine, but I would assume that if there are loose parts and you accidentally drop the block from the stand then you could end up with tiny little engine parts being distributed nicely (or not so nicely) all around your workshop.
You've been warned!


Gantry Crane.

I have to admit, me and the gantry crane do not see eye to eye at all.
In-fact, we avoid each other at all costs wherever possible. It's that bad.

However, from my very brief encounters with it, this is what I have learned.

First off, and very importantly.... keep a very close eye on the legs of the crane at all times while moving it around, especially if you have tables nearby with engine parts all over them.
The crane can, and will, throw those parts all over the workshop at any opportunity it gets if it hits anything!
Again, you've been warned!

So, back to our car.
You will need to ensure that anything that could potentially connect the engine to the chassis in any way, shape, or form, or anything that could obstruct it's removal from the engine bay, is either removed or disconnected.
This includes but is not limited to: engine mount nuts (one each side on the under-side of the Front Subframe), exhaust (just the headers or flex-pipe will do), radiator coolant pipes-top and bottom, transmission (excluding Clutch), PPF, Driveshaft, Intercooler pipes (if a turbo is fitted).... so on and so forth.
You may be able to get away with leaving the exhaust header pipes and the intake manifold on but they can restrict removal/replacement, so for the sake of a few nuts it's not really worth messing around with. Just remove them and it will likely save you some time and grief in the long run. Your call though.

ps. You can leave the transmission oil in the transmission when you remove it from the engine. It is a sealed unit so no fluid will leak out anywhere. The only time it will leak is if you remove the drain plug, or the fill plug and then roll the unit over so as the oil then comes out of the fill hole.

Once everything is disconnected, place the crane in position directly over the top of the engine.
Lower the hooks by pressing the relevant button on the crane's control panel and you will see the hooks slowly lower.
Stop when the hooks are just above the engine.



Grab a hook (any one will do, there is no order to do this in) by left-clicking on it (just click and release. Don't hold the button down.) and then drag to place the hooks - one in each corner of the head where the cam cover joins it. (there are no 'eyes' to attach the hooks to, they just kinda attach themselves to the head/cam cover.)



With all four of them in place, one in each corner and distributed in a manner that will help keep the engine reasonably well balanced to prevent it tipping, grab the block (left click on the block in desktop mode) and move it slightly just to 'free' it from the chassis.
Now go back to the control panel on the crane, and lift the engine clear of the chassis.





If the chains go haywire then there's something still preventing the engine from being pulled clear. Go back and double check that everything is disconnected, and that nothing could be preventing it from being pulled clear.
Try also grabbing/clicking on the engine block again just to make sure it has been 'knocked' free of the chassis. You should be able to see it move slightly when it comes free.
Once you're satisfied everything is free and clear, try going back to your crane and lifting the engine clear again. If the same happens you'll have to repeat this process.
Yeah I know. That's why I hate this wangy crane!

Once the engine starts to lift, you can aid it by lowering the lift that the car is on. This will give you more room to move the engine and crane around unhindered.
Again, watch those legs while moving the crane around if you have loose parts laying around anywhere nearby.


Refitting of the engine should just be the reverse of the removal procedure.
Just don't forget to fill the coolant back up via the radiator afterwards!

Other than that, you're good to go!


ps. you can cheat and just use the engine stand instead of the gantry crane if you really struggle with it. Plenty of people do as the crane can be a bit** to use at times.
The downside is it can be tricky to get the engine back in to the right position to remount it to the chassis when using just the stand and not the crane.
You'll just have to experiment and see which works best for you.



Hopefully this will help anyone out who is struggling with using either of these tools.

I'll try and give a brief explanation.
Hopefully this will help shed a little light on the myth for those who may be in some doubt.

A lot of people seem to be confusing the wear indicator as the 'actual condition' of the part.
This isn't the case.
What you're actually seeing is the percentage of the overall life expectancy of the part.
All parts are given an expected lifespan in hours, meaning that the more hours of use you put on the part the higher the wear percentage will be.

In the screen shot below we have three items which are all part worn. A wheel, a set of headers, and an oil filter.


.

First off, let's take a look at our wheel.



We can see from the UI in the screen shot that the wheel is showing three sets of numbers.
4 / 100 (4%).
So how should we read this?

Well, the first set of numbers, in this case, '4', is the actual amount of hours we have put on that wheel so far.
The second set, in this case, '100', is the recommended amount of hours that part should be used for before it should ideally be replaced.
The third set of numbers is our percentage of actual hours/wear out of our recommended hours/wear, which in this case is, 4%

So in simple terms - It's been used for 4 hours out of a recommended 100 hours, thus it has 4% wear. 4 / 100. (4%)


Next up we have a set of headers.



This time the first set of numbers is '15'.
The second set is '100'.
The third set of numbers is 15%.

So in simple terms - It's been used for 15 hours out of a recommended 100 hours, thus it has 15% wear. 15 / 100. (15%)


And finally we have an oil filter.



This time the first set of numbers is '2'.
The second set is '10'.
The third set of numbers is 20%.

So in simple terms - It's been used for 2 hours out of a recommended 10 hours, thus it has 20% wear. 2 / 10. (20%)

Now while the second set of numbers is a recommendation rather than being definitive, to be safe you should ideally treat it as the latter.
It is what is considered to be the maximum amount of usage a part can have and still remain in safe working condition.
It's basically a safety net. - A number given to each part to ensure it remains inside it's safe range of use.
Sure, you can push every part past the recommended maximum amount of hours, or 100%, and it may be fine... but it's only a matter of time!

Reaching 100% wear on a part doesn't automatically mean your car will instantly break the next time you try to use it, but there is an increased risk of the part failing, and the further you push it the greater the risk becomes.

I should also point out that just because something has an 'expected' lifespan of say, 100 hours, doesn't mean it WILL last for 100 hours.
Just like in real life, things sometimes break before they should.
This may happen in-game sometimes too. It seems to be rare, but it can happen.

Also, just to clarify, no parts will wear if the car is not in use.
It will only accumulate wear while it is actively being driven on track.
So they can sit in storage, in your workshop, or in your race trailer indefinitely and they won't deteriorate at all.
It's purely only while they are on the car, and actively being raced and in motion.


So, in conclusion:

What you ideally want to do is look at the 'wear' and read it as 'hours', and then also remember that 'wear' actually means 'percentage of it's expected serviceable lifespan' and not 'how broken/close to breaking it actually is'.

So play it safe.
Stay under 100% and you should be fine.
Go beyond it, and you're starting to push your luck.
The further you push it, higher the risk of it biting you on the a**.
The choice on just how far you push it, is all yours!

.
So, now we have all of that out of the way let's get on with our engine, shall we?!
.

Start off by purchasing an Engine Stand.
(Not compulsory, but a hell of a lot easier if you do!)



You can raise and lower the height this by grabbing the semi-transparent blue area on top of the stand which surrounds the elongated inverted 'U' shaped hook, as per the screen shot below.

You can also rotate the engine when it's on the stand by grabbing the semi-transparent blue areas covering the handles, and rotating them in the desired direction.
You can rotate it in either direction, and there is no limit as to how far you can rotate it.



.

If you can afford it at this stage it may well be worth also investing in at least one 'Roller Cart' if you don't already have one. (I have two for engine builds which I keep fairly small in size, and then place one on each side of the engine/stand while stripping/building my engines.)
This makes it so much easier to lay items out on while building your engine, and saves you having to keep crouching down to pick things up off of the floor.
Let's face it, you really don't want to be putting engine parts on the floor anyway, especially as it's vital to keep them clean. The last thing we want is to kill our brand new engine as soon as it's built because it's full of crud! (not actually an issue in-game, but this is a 'simulator' so lets play by real life rules!)


Now go ahead and purchase:
1x Engine Block.

Take your Engine Stand and place it somewhere fairly bright and accessible. I did my engine build near the right hand wall (as it is when you first enter the game) as it is fairly bright over there. The extra light will come in handy.

Now take your Engine Block and carry it until you're close to your Engine Stand.
While still holding the Block in your hands, use the context menu to enable you to mount the Block to the Stand.



.

Just quickly before we continue. I should just mention that some of the following sections contain 'staged' torquing procedures (torquing a little at a time rather than going from nothing to full torque all in one go), and/or 'sequenced' torquing procedures (torquing nuts/bolts in a specific order).
These features used to be in the game but were removed for the time being as the game couldn't recognise whether or not the player had actually followed these rules correctly.
However, Alec (one of the devs) has assured me that he does plan to reintroduce these features again once they have got the code written up to allow the game to recognise if this has been done correctly. It also seems that you will be penalised if you don't follow these rules once they have been reintroduced.
For this reason (and for those who like to play the game as true to life as possible), I will keep these staged and/or sequenced torquing procedures in here.
However, as it stands right now you can disregard them if you so desire.
I will update this side note as and when things change.

Now purchase the following:
4x Oil Squirter.
4x Oil Squirter Bolt.
1x Crankshaft.
2x Thrust Bearing.
5x Main Bearing (Block Side).
5x Main Bearing (Cap side).
5x Main Bearing Cap.
10x Main Bearing Cap Bolt.

Place your Oil Squirters and Oil Squirter Bolts up inside from the bottom of the Block and torque the Oil Squirter Bolts down to 15Nm. You ideally need to do this before attempting to put the Crank in place as they are not easily accessible afterwards.
Next up, place your Main Bearings (Block side) into position in the bottom of your Block.
Place your two Thrust Bearings into position in the bottom of your Block. These will go beside your Main bearing (Block side) between cylinders 3 and 4, the two rearmost cylinders nearest the transmission end of the Block.
Place your Main Bearings (Cap Side) into position in your Main Bearing Caps.
Place your Crankshaft into position in the Block, taking care not to spin the Crank at this stage as it could dislodge the Main Bearings. (I had one of my Main Bearings fall out completely by accidentally moving the Crank before it was all bolted into position!)
Place your Main Bearing Caps into position over the Crank (ensure the bearings are in position first).
Take your Main Bearing Cap Bolts and place them into position in the caps, and then torque them each down in two stages to 57Nm. (ie: 30Nm > 57Nm.) using the sequence shown below.

It is good practise to just wind bolts down finger tight at first (or at least just spinning them down with your wrench without any tightening motion in the game), just to seat them before starting the torquing sequence. This will help to ensure that components are seated squarely in position. Luckily, this doesn't seem to be an issue in-game. (not yet, at least, although I wouldn't discount it being a possible feature in the future.)




Next up, purchase the following.
4x Piston.
8x Pin Clip.
4x Piston Ring (Compression).
4x Piston Ring (Intermediate).
4x Piston rRing (Oil Control).
4x Connecting Rod.
4x Wrist Pin.
8x Rod Bearing.
4x Rod Cap.
8x Connecting Rod Cap Nut.

Fit one Pin Clip into one side of each Piston and fit the Piston Rings - Compression in the top ring groove, Intermediate in the middle, and Oil Control in the bottom ring groove. Then attach each Piston to a Connecting Rod, slide the Wrist Pins into position, and finally fit the remaining Pin Clips into their respective positions in each Piston. Note: you need to grab a Piston assembly and direct it on to a Rod as trying to direct a Rod up into a Piston doesn't appear to register in the game.
Next, place a Rod Bearing into the bottom of each Rod, and one in to each Rod Cap.
Slide each Piston/Rod assembly in to the cylinders from the TOP of the Block, and then fit each Rod Cap over the Crankshaft and on to the end of each Rod, place your Connecting Rod Cap Nuts into position and finally torque them down in three stages to 50Nm. (ie: 15Nm > 35Nm > 50Nm).

With the Crankshaft now located within the Block it's time to turn our attention to attaching all of the other bottom end components to the block.

Start off by purchasing the following:
1x Oil Pump.
1x Oil Pump Gasket.
3x M8x30mm Bolts.
2x M8x50mm Bolts.
1x Front Main Seal.

Place the Oil Pump Gasket on to the back of the Oil Pump, and then place Oil Pump on to the front of the Block. Place the three M8x30mm Bolts and the two M8x50mm Bolts into position in the Oil Pump housing, and torque all five bolts down to 22Nm.
Finally, slide the Front Main Seal into position over the front of the Crankshaft and into the recess in the Oil Pump outer face.


Ignore the fact that the screenshot above shows three M8x50mm Bolts. This is an old screenshot from before the arrival of the Alternators to the game. One of those bolts has now been replaced with a different one which will be included in the shopping list for the Alternator parts later in this guide.


Next up, purchase the following:
1x Rear Main Seal.
1x Rear Main Seal Retainer.
4x M6x20mm Bolt.
1x Rear Oil Pan Seal.
1x Front Oil Pan Seal.

Take your Rear Main Seal Retainer and slide your Rear Main Seal into it, and then place this assembly in to position on the rear of the Block, over the Crankshaft.
Place your four M6x20mm Bolts into position in the Rear Main Seal Retainer and torque them down to 10Nm.
Next, place your Front Oil Pan Seal into position on the bottom of your Oil pump, and your Rear Oil Pan Seal into position on the bottom of your Rear Main Seal Retainer.




Purcahse the following:
1x Oil Drain Bolt.
1x Oil Pan.
1x Oil Pickup Tube.
1x Oil Pickup Tube Gasket.
2x M6x40mm Bolt.
1x Windage Tray.
16x M6x15mm Bolt.
2x Unique Oil Pan Bolt Long. M6x150mm.

Place your Windage Tray into position over your Crank.
Place your Oil Pickup Tube Gasket into position on the bottom of your Oilpump.
Next, place your Oil Pickup Tube into position over your Windage Tray. (The 'hit point' on this can be a little tricky to find. I found if you place your cursor over the windage tray and below # 3 cylinder, it should snap in to place. Pointing your cursor at the gasket doesn't seem to register.)
Place your two M6x40mm Bolts into position in your Oil Pickup Tube and torque them down to 9Nm.
Take your Oil Pan and put it into position on the bottom of your Block and place all sixteen of your M6x15mm Bolts (eight on either side) and your two Unique Oil Pan Bolt Long. M6x150m. into position and torque them all down to 10Nm.
Finally, place your Oil Drain Bolt into position and torque it down to 30Nm.




Purchase:
1x Oil Cooler.
1x Oil Cooler Nut.
1x Oil Filter.

Place your Oil Cooler into position on the left hand side of your Block. (engine upright, viewed from the front.)
Place your Oil Cooler Nut into position and torque it down to 40Nm.
Place your Oil Filter onto your Oil Cooler.




Next up, purchase:
1x Water Pump.
1x Water Pump Gasket.
4x M8x30mm Bolts.
2x M10x45mm Bolts.
1x Idler Pulley.
1x Tensioner Pulley.

Place your Water Pump Gasket on to the back of your Water Pump, and then place your Water Pump into position on the front of the Block above the Oil Pump.
Place the four M8x30mm Bolts into position, and then torque them down to 24Nm.
Place your Tensioner Pulley and Idler Pulley into position on to the front of your Water Pump (towards the top), and then position your two M10x45mm Bolts so as one goes through each Pulley, and finally torque them both down to 45Nm.

First up, we need to purchase the following:
1x Cylinder Head Casting.
8x Intake Valve.
8x Exhaust Valve.
16x Valve Seal.
16x Valve Spring.
16x Valve Retainer.
16x Hydraulic Lash Adjuster. (HLA).

Orientate the Cylinder Head Casting as per the screenshots below, and then slide your Valve Seals over the valve guides in the Cylinder Head. Again, as per the screenshots below.





Now flip the Cylinder Head Casting over so as the valve seats and combustion chambers are facing you, as per the screenshot below.
Take your Intake Valves and Exhaust Valves, and guide them into position within your Cylinder Head Casting. These will automatically snap in to the correct positions with all of Intake Valves in a line on one side of the head, and all Exhaust Valves snapping into position in a line on the opposite side of the head, so no need to worry about getting this wrong.
As long as you have something resembling the 'before' and 'after' screenshots below, it's all good.





Now you need to flip the Cylinder Head Casting back over again so as you're now viewing the opposite side, as per the screenshot below.




You should now be able to see the 'valve stems' (the long, thin parts) of the Intake Valves and Exhaust Valves that you slid into position within the Cylinder Head Casting in the previous stage.
Now we need to fit our Valve Springs and our Retaining Clips into position.
It's up to you whether you place all of your Valve Springs in position first and then place all of your Retaining Clips in place afterwards, or place a spring and a retainer on each valve stem in turn.

In reality you would quite likely use a tool to compress each spring in turn after a Retaining Clip has been placed in position on top of the spring, and two small semi-circular collets would then be placed on top of the retainer. These small collets would then (hopefully) slot into a small groove around the top of the valve stem as the tension on the spring is slowly released. If they don't, expect to spend several minutes/ hours hunting down collets, retainers and possibly even springs, depending on how fast the spring decompresses as the tool is released. Those of you who have been there in real life will know exactly what I mean!
Come on now, let's see a show of hands.... o/

Since the game is attempting to portray real life procedures we will do the same here.
Starting from one end (any end you like) and working your way along one side first, place a Valve Spring into the Cylinder Head Casting over the top of one of the Intake or Exhaust Valves you slid into position in the previous stage. With the Valve Spring in position place a Retaining Clip into position over the top of the Valve spring.
Once this is done move on to the valve beside it and repeat the process, spring first and retainer on top. Repeat this process along the line until all springs and retainers are in position one one side of the cylinder head, and then repeat the process along the line for the remaining springs and valves.
If all has gone to plan it should look like this:



Before moving on it is definitely worth doing a quick visual inspection to make sure all of your springs and retainers are in place. Don't be afraid to use your flashlight to aid you. It's better to make sure everything is in order before you progress any further rather than having to strip things back down again later on.

Next up you need to insert your Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. (HLA's).
Follow the same procedure you used for the springs and retainers, working from one end to the other on one side of the head, and then from one end to the other on the other side of the head. As long as you have an HLA over each valve stem / spring / retainer assembly then you're pretty much ready to move on tho the next stage.



Do a quick final visual inspection before moving on just to make sure everything is in place.
Tearing out an HLA, two camshafts, ten cam caps, and 20+ bolts that have all been torqued down, just to give that stray valve spring or Retainer a home is headache you could certainly do without. Well, unless you have masochistic tendencies that is?!

Once you're satisfied everything is in order, we can move on.

Next up, purchase the following:
1x Cam Cap. (Exhaust 1).
1x Cam Cap. (Exhaust 2).
1x Cam Cap. (Exhaust 3).
1x Cam Cap. (Exhaust 4).
1x Cam Cap. (Exhaust 5).
1x Exhaust Cam.
1x Cam Cap. (Intake 1).
1x Cam Cap. (Intake 2).
1x Cam Cap. (Intake 3).
1x Cam Cap. (Intake 4).
1x Cam Cap. (Intake 5).
1x Intake Cam.
20x Cam Cap Bolt (Unique. M6x40mm).

Place your Intake Cam, and your Exhaust Cam into position upon your Cylinder Head Casting. These will snap in to position automatically so no need to worry about which one goes where.
Next, place your Cam Caps into position over their respective Cams. Again, these will all snap into place automatically to aid installation and ensure correct positioning and orientation.
Next up, place all twenty of your Cam Cap Bolts into position within your Cam Caps, both Intake 1-5, and Exhaust 1-5.
Once all of the Cam Cap Bolts are in position, go ahead and tighten them all down to 12Nm. following the tightening sequence shown below.



Now go ahead and purchase:
1x CAS Cap.
2x M8x35mm Bolt.
1x CAS adjuster bolt.
1x Cam Angle Sensor. (CAS).

Place your CAS Cap into position on top of your Exhaust Cam, and then place your two M8x35mm Bolts into position within the CAS Cap. (place the bolts in position but don't run them down or tighten them just yet.)
Next, take your Cam Angle Sensor and place it on to the rear end of your Exhaust Cam so as it locates within the CAS Cap.
Place the CAS adjuster bolt into position within the Cam Angle Sensor from the rear of the cylinder head.
Finally, run both of your M8x35mm bolts and your CAS adjuster bolt down and torque them all down to 15Nm.

Next we move on to assembling the first pieces of our Crankshaft timing components.

The timing of an engine is a critical part of engine building. Getting this wrong could result in severe engine damage as soon as you try to run the engine as the pistons could easily collide with the valves in the cylinder head, potentially leaving a number of irreparable parts to both the top (cylinder head related) and possibly bottom (engine block related) ends of the engine.
How critical all of this is in-game I'm not entirely sure myself as I haven't put it to the test, although judging by the detail they have gone into so far I wouldn't mind betting that getting this wrong would spell disaster in-game too!

Note: I've actually found out since writing this guide that the engine in this game is what is referred to as a 'non-interference' engine, meaning that there is sufficient clearance between piston crown and valve head at TDC and full valve lift to prevent the two from touching.
'Interference' engines on the other hand don't have sufficient clearance, and these are the ones that can cause serious problems if you get things wrong.
However, care should still be taken with either type of motor when dealing with timing.
So, since this motor is a non-interference version you can ignore the talk in this guide of pistons and valves getting a little too cozy with each other for comfort.

If you have followed all of the stages in the previous sections correctly you should now have two sets of components resembling something like this:



If you haven't then something, somewhere has gone slightly awry!
Time to retrace our steps and try and identify where it all went wrong.

If, however, you do have something resembling the screenshot above, then try and stay focused for just a little longer. Get these last few critical pieces of work done over the next few sections and we're on the home straight.

OK, you ready? Then let's begin.

Start by purchasing the following:
1x Crankshaft Sprocket.
1x Woodruff key.

Viewing the end of the Crankshaft from the front you should see a small square cutout in the end of the shaft.. This is the cut out where the Woodruff key will go, which will centralise all of the components on the end of the Crank that are used to help correctly time the engine.
In the screenshot below you can see the cutout in the end of the Crank in roughly the 3 o'clock position.
In the screenshot below that you can see the same thing, but this time there is a blue, semi-transparent image just to the right of the Crank. Basically, it looks like a rod with a block attached to that that can slide up and down on the rod, kinda like sliding a bead up and down on an abacus. (ask your Mum). This is used to help simulate the movement of the Crank. (whether this shows up in VR mode or not I can't say for sure. I don't have VR myself so am working with mouse and keyboard only. Either way, I believe you may be able to rotate the Crank with your virtual hand. Cool, huh?).





Basically, what we want to do is rotate the Crank so as this cutout is at the 12 o'clock position. ie. the cutout is facing upwards, or at the top of the Crank.



There's two things we want to check at this stage.
Firstly, if you look above the cutout in the Crank you will notice there is a small 'arrow' on the Oil Pump housing which appears to be facing downwards, or towards the Crank.
It's easy to overlook this little arrow, but it's not there by accident.

Secondly, we want to take a look downwards on to the top of our Block. With the cutout in the Crank facing upwards and towards our little arrow, we should also be able to see that the Piston closest to us (assuming you are viewing your Block from the front) which is cylinder # 1, should be right at the top of it's stroke. (as high up as it will travel, before starting to go back down again as the Crank is rotated) . This is what is referred to as 'Top Dead Centre' or 'TDC' for short. Having the Crank in this position is critical for allowing us to correctly time our engine.



Once we have confirmed these two things it's time to start assembling the first parts of our Crank timing components.

Firstly, take your Crankshaft Sprocket and slide it on to the end of your Crank.
Next, place your Woodruff key into position on the end of your Crank. This will slot into that cutout we saw in our Crank earlier that we set to the 12 o'clock position, and also locate into a similar cutout in our Crankshaft Sprocket.
(The Idea is that it will lock all of our components in place and prevent any of them from spinning, as this would result in us losing the ability to keep our Crank and Pistons timed correctly with our Cams and Valves. if this timing is wrong the Pistons could strike the Valves and wreck the engine.)

Now, take a look at that little arrow I referred to earlier. You'll now notice it lines up nicely with that little 'U' shaped cutout in our Crankshaft Sprocket. Again, this is no coincidence. With that arrow sitting nicely in line with the cutout in our sprocket, we can be pretty sure our Crank and our Piston are both in the correct position at TDC. Exactly where we want them to be. If we do accidentally jog the Crank and happen to rotate it away from TDC then we can now pretty easily identify it and rectify it.



As an optional extra, if you so desire, you can quickly run an eye over your Piston position and your Crank alignment marks at this stage just to double check that everything is in order and everything is nicely aligned at TDC. It's not critical as we will recheck it prior to fitting our timing belt once we have fitted our head to our Block and aligned our Cams, but at that stage we wont visually be able to see our piston location so checking it now gives us that little extra piece of mind.

Now we are going to fit our fully assembled cylinder head onto our Engine Block.

Go ahead and purchase the following:
1x Head Gasket.
10x Head Bolt.

Firstly, take your Head Gasket and place it on top of your Engine Block.
Then take your Cylinder Head Casting and place that on top of your Engine Block too, sandwiching the Head Gasket between the two.
Next, place the ten Head Bolts into position within the Cylinder Head Casting.





There doesn't appear to be any information regarding the tightening sequence for the head bolts other than that shown in the screenshot below. I may have overlooked it, and if I have then feel free to drop a comment and let me know and I'll update this guide once I've verified it. Failing that, I guess we just do as the game tells us to do. Start from the centre and work our way out. The process I have adopted is to torque the Head Bolts down initially to 50Nm, and then torque them in the same sequence and from the centre outwards, down to the recommended 79Nm.
I also follow the pattern set out for tightening the Main Bearing Cap Bolts that we followed in the very first section while installing our Crank. I've had no problems so far while doing it this way even during several 12 hour endurance races, so I'm pretty confident this will be trouble free for you too.
If you should happen to run in to problems then let me know so we can warn others until we find a solution.




Ignore the fact that this screenshot shows the Crank. It is here just as a reference for the tightening sequence I adopted for the Head Bolts.

Now purchase the following:
4x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)
1x Thermostat Neck.
1x Thermostat.
1x Thermostat Cover.
1x Engine Timing Plate.
6x M6x12mm Bolt.

Take your Thermostat Neck and place it in to position on the front of your Cylinder Head Casting.
Next, place your two M8x15mm Bolts (Class 10.9) and place them in to position in your Thermostat Neck, and the torque them both down to 20Nm.



Next, take your Engine Timing Plate and place this into position on the front of your Cylinder Head casting, and over the top of the base of your Thermostat Neck.
Now take your six M6x12mm Bolts, place them in to position, and then tighten them all down to 10Nm.


Once this is done, take your Thermostat and place it in to position in to the end of your Thermostat Neck.
Next, place your Thermostat Cover in to place over the top of your Thermostat.
Now place the two M8x15mm Bolts (Class 10.9) in to position in your Thermostat Cover, and tighten them both down to 20Nm.

With our Cylinder Head assembly tightened down it's time to turn our attention to our Cams.

Viewing the ends of the Cams from the front of the engine we can see that each one has a little 'pin' sticking out of the front of it. This is used to locate our Cam Gears onto our Cams and hold them in position to stop them spinning, similar to the way our Woodruff key holds our timing components in place on the end of our Crank. Again, severe engine damage could occur if these pins weren't there and our Cam Gears managed to spin on the Cams, as the Valves would quite likely make contact with the Pistons sooner or later.



Go ahead and purchase the following:
2x Camshaft Seal.
2x Cam Gear.
2x M10x35mm Bolts.
1x Timing Belt.
1x Tensioner Spring.

Slide the two Camshaft Seals into position over the end of your Cams.



Place your Cam Gears on to the ends of your Cams. These will snap into position automatically so no need to worry about getting them aligned correctly.
Now we need to pull out the second of our special tools, our Cam Locking Tool. Place this into position between your Cam Gears.
Now place your M10x35mm Bolts into position through the Cam Gears, and torque them down to 55Nm.




Now we come to the most critical part of our Engine Timing so far. If we get this wrong then all of our hard work up until now will be for nothing as we'll probably have to strip and rebuild our engine again as soon as we try to run it. Yep, it's that dreaded Piston - Valve scenario!
As long as we take it slow and remain focused then there really should be nothing to worry about. If you're in doubt about anything, double check it. Never be afraid to check, double check, and triple check if need be. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Now, when you first placed your Cams into position when you were assembling the head, your Cams should have automatically located themselves into the perfect position. As long as you haven't rotated either of them between then and now there shouldn't need to be any adjustments made.
However, this doesn't mean we can take it for granted!
Take a look at the front of your engine, specifically at your Cam Gears and the Timing Plate behind them.
You will see a small orange/yellow mark on the outer edges of of the front face of each of your Cam Gears, and two white lines painted onto the Timing Plate, one with an 'E' next to it, the other with an 'I' next to it.
(I should just point out that during recent game updates the two white lines I refer to here seem to have vanished from the newer Timing Plates, making alignment of the Cams trickier.
I have spoken to one of the devs about this and he has agreed that these lines should probably be reintroduced in some way to make timing easier for those with little knowledge. For the time being you will just have to study the screenshot above or below and note the position of the lines - which are right below the I'' and the 'E' on the Timing Plate, - and also note that the line 'should' be running down the centre of the raised part of the plate that is again, right below the 'I' and the 'E'.
This situation isn't ideal, but for now we'll just have to live with it.
If you get a symptom pop up once you have built and installed the engine in to the car saying that 'the engine turns over but will not start', It's more than likely that the timing is very slightly out, and checking the cam alignment to the plate here would be the best place to start.

You will also notice an 'E' and an 'I' cast into the Cam Gears just behind those orange/yellow marks.

Now, what we need to do is make sure those orange/yellow marks on our Cam Gears line up with those white marks on the Timing Plate behind them, and that the 'E' and 'I' cast into the Cam Gears also lines up with the corresponding 'E' or 'I' on the Timing Plate. There are two of these orange/yellow marks on the outer edges of each Cam Gear, so it's vital we get the right ones.

As I mentioned before, when assembling the head, the Cams should have snapped into the correct position for us, so in theory these marks 'should' all line up nicely. If they don't, however, then we will need to rotate either or both of our Cams until they do align with the marks on the plate. (don't forget to remove your Cam Locking Tool if it's still in place as you probably won't be able to rotate your Cams with it in place. Replace it again once you're satisfied all of the marks line up nicely).

As long as all of your marks line up as per the screenshot below, then everything is just right. Make sure your Cam Locking Tool is in place to prevent your Cams from rotating, and we're ready to move on.



So, we're now happy that our Cams are set to the correct position, now we need to double check our Crankshaft position.
Remember how we set our #1 Piston to TDC (Top Dead Centre) and aligned our Crankshaft Sprocket with that 'arrow' on our Oilpump in one of our earlier sections? Well, now we need to double check this again, just to make sure everything is still nicely aligned.
Go ahead and check that the 'U' shaped cutout in the Crankshaft Sprocket still aligns with the 'arrow'. If it doesn't then go ahead and slowly rotate the Crankshaft until it does.
Once you're satisfied that it is aligned as close as you can get it, quickly double check your Cams are still aligned with the marks on the Timing Plate.



If all looks good, go ahead and fit your Timing Belt into position. (You may need to point your cursor towards the Crank for this to register, and the belt to snap into position).
With the Timing Belt in position, go ahead an place your Tensioner Spring in to position between your Idler Pulley and your Tensioner Pulley which are located on the Water Pump, and just below where your Thermostat Neck is poking out from.
Once your Timing Belt and Tensioner Spring are in position you can safely remove your Cam Locking Tool. (assuming you have it in position, that is.)



Quickly double check that ALL of your timing marks, both on the Cams to the Timing Plate, and on the Crankshaft Sprocket to the 'arrow' are all still nicely aligned.
If for any reason anything is out of line, remove your Timing Belt and go back over the above procedures of aligning the Cam and Crank timing marks. Once you're satisfied that everything is back where it should be, go ahead and refit your Timing Belt.
With the Timing Belt back in place recheck that ALL timing marks now align properly.

With our Timing Belt now in position we can go ahead and fit the final few pieces on to the end of our Crank.

Go ahead and purchase the following:
1x Crank Bolt.
1x Crankshaft Pulley. (Harmonic Balancer).
4x M6x15mm Bolts.
1x Crank Pulley Boss.
1x Crankshaft Plate.

Take your Crankshaft Pulley Boss and slide it into position against your Crankshaft Sprocket.



With our Crankshaft Pulley Boss in position, it's time to pull out the second of our 'special tools'. The one we're after is our Crankshaft Locking Tool.
Equip this and place it in position against your Crankshaft Pulley Boss. It will automatically snap into position for you.
Next up, grab your Crank Bolt and position it into the end of your Crank and then torque it down to 160Nm.



With that done you can now remove your Crankshaft Locking Tool and Holster it back out of the way again. That tool was used to enable us to hold our Crank still while we torqued up our Crank Bolt. Without that tool all we would have done is spun our Crank round and round as there wouldn't have been anywhere near enough resistance to hold it still while we exerted that amount of force onto the Bolt.

Next, take your Crankshaft Pulley (Harmonic Balancer) and position it against your Crankshaft Pulley Boss.
Then, take your Crankshaft Plate, and position it against your Crankshaft Pulley.
Finally, take your four M6x15mmm Bolts and place them into the four holes in your Crankshaft Plate, and then torque all four bolts down to 10Nm.

Once this is done, double check that ALL of your timing marks, both on the Cams to the Timing Plate, and on the Crankshaft Sprocket to the 'arrow' are all still nicely aligned.

If all marks are still aligned on both your Crank and your Cams, (and your Cam Locking Tool is removed and holstered out of the way) then you can go ahead, breathe a sigh of relief and relax.
You've done it. You've successfully timed your engine!

Now we can go ahead and fit the last few items to our engine.

Go ahead and purchase the following:
1x Valve Cover.
1x Valve Cover Gasket.
11x Valve Cover Bolt. M6x43mm.
1x PCV Valve.
1x Dip Stick.
1x Dip Stick Tube.
1x Oil Fill Cap.

Take your Valve Cover Gasket and place it in to position on the underside of your Valve Cover as per the screenshots below.




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Place your Valve Cover into position on top of your engine.
Place your eleven Valve Cover Bolts into position in the Valve cover, run them down, and then torque them down to 7.5Nm. using the sequence shown below.



Place your PCV Valve into your Valve Cover.
Place your Dip Stick Tube into the side of your Oil Pan (right hand side and towards the rear, as viewed from the timing belt end of the engine) and then place your Dip Stick inside the tube.
Then place your Oil Fill Cap into position on your Valve Cover.

Next, purchase the following:
4x Spark Plug.
1x Coil Pack.
2x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)
1x Plug Wire. (Cyl 1).
1x Plug Wire. (Cyl 2).
1x Plug Wire. (Cyl 3).
1x Plug Wire. (Cyl 4).

Place your Spark Plugs in to position within your Cylinder Head, run them all down, and then torque them all down to 18Nm. (You will need to use your socket extension for this as you won't be able to reach the plugs without it.).
Place your Coil Pack in to position on the rear facing edge of your Valve Cover. and beside your Cam Angle Sensor. (CAS).
Place your two M8x15mm Bolts (Class 10.9) in to position against your Coil Pack, run them both down and then torque them both down to 20Nm.
Finally, take each of your Plug Wires in turn and place them in to position over the corresponding cylinder's Spark Plug. They will snap in to position on the Spark Plug and in to the respective position on the Coil Pack simultaneously.





Now purchase the following:
6x M10x30mm Bolts.
2x Engine Mount.
2x Engine Mount Cup.
2x M10 Nut.
1x Engine Horn.
1x Engine Horn.
(I haven't duplicated the listing for the Engine Horn. There are two in the catalog both Identically named. However, one is for the left hand side of the car and one is for the right, although this isn't stated in the catalog. Go ahead and buy one of each).

Take your Engine Mount Cups and place them over your Engine Mounts. (These will only go on one way, so if at first your cup doesn't go on to your mount, try it from the other side).
Now place each mount into position on your Engine Horns.
Place your M10 Nuts in to position on your Engine Mounts from inside your Engine Horns (one in each), and torque them both down to 20Nm.
Finally, place you Engine Horns in to position against your Block - one on each side. Place your M10x 30mm Bolts into position in the Engine Horns, and then torque them all down to 60Nm.

Now Purchase the following:
1x Coolant Temp Sensor (in housing)
1x Coolant Hardpipe.
1x Water Pump Inlet.
1x Coolant Hose.
2x 25mm Hose Clamp.
3x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)
1x M8 Flange Nut.

Place your Coolant Temp Sensor (in housing) in to position on the rear face of your Block.
Place one M8x15mm Bolt (Class 10.9), and your M8 Flange nut in to position and torque them both down to 20Nm.



Next place your Water Pump inlet in to position on the left hand side of your Water Pump.(right hand side as you're looking at the engine from the front.)
Place two M8x15mm Bolts (Class 10.9) in to position in the Water Pump Inlet, and torque them both down to 20Nm.



Next, place your Coolant Hardpipe in to position against the left hand side of your Block. (this will slot into your Coolant Hardpipe.)
(To get it to snap in to place, point your cursor at the bracket, which will slot against one of the studs around the exhaust ports, as per the screen shot.)



Now place your Coolant Hose in to position between your Coolant Hardpipe and your Coolant Temp Sensor (in housing), then place your 25mm Hose Clamps into position, one on each end of the Coolant Hose.



Now purchase the following:
1x Fuel Rail.
4x Injector.
4x Injector Spacer.
3x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)

Place your Injectors in to your Fuel Rail.


Now place your Injector Spacers on to the ends of your Injectors.


Now place your Fuel Rail assembly in to your Cylinder Head Casting, place your three M8x15mm Bolt (Class 10.9) in to position in the Fuel Rail, and then torque them all down to 20Nm.


Now purchase the following:
1x Alternator.
1x Alternator Tensioner Bracket.
1x Water Pump Pulley.
1x Accessory Belt.
1x Alternator Bottom Bolt.
1x M8x35mm Bolt.
1x M10x30mm Bolt.
3x M6x12mm Bolts.



Place the Alternator in position against your Engine Block.
Place the Alternator Tensioner Bracket in position and secure to the Engine Block with an M10 1.5 x 30mm Bolt, tightening the bolt to 40Nm.
Place the Alternator Bottom Bolt in to position from the rear of the Alternator and tighten to 40Nm. Place the Water Pump Pulley in to position on the front of the Water Pump, then place the three M6x12mm Bolts in to position in the Water Pump Pulley and tighten to all three to 12Nm.
Place the Accessory Belt in to position.
Finally, secure the top of the Alternator to the Alternator Mounting Bracket with an M8 1.25 x 35mm bolt, and tighten to 20Nm.

Start off by purchasing the following:
1x M8 Flange Nut.
1x Transmission Plate.
1x Aluminium Flywheel.
1x Pilot Bearing.
6x Flywheel Bolt. M12x25mm.
1x Clutch Disc.
1x Pressure Plate.
6x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)

Place your Transmission Plate in to position against the rear of your Engine Block.


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Now place your M8 Flange Nut against the thread of the small mounting bracket on your Dip Stick Tube which will now be poking through from the rear of the Transmission Plate. Run this M8 Flange Nut down and then torque it to 20Nm.



Next up, place your Pilot Bearing in to position in the centre of your Aluminium Flywheel.



Note: You will need to have both the Transmission plate in place, and also your Pilot Bearing inserted in to your Aluminium Flywheel BEFORE attempting to bolt your Aluminium Flywheel in place against the rear of the Crank, as neither of them will snap in to position afterwards.

With your Transmission Plate in position against your Block and your Pilot Bearing in position within the centre of your Aluminium Flywheel, you can now go ahead and place your Aluminium Flywheel in to position against the rear face of your Crank.
Take your six Flywheel Bolt: M12x25mm and place them in to position within your Aluminium Flywheel. Run them all down, and then torque them all down to 100Nm.
Next up, place your Clutch Disc in to position within your Pressure Plate.





Now place your Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate assembly in to position against your Aluminium Flywheel. Place your six M8x15mm Bolt (Class 10.9) in to position around the outer edge of your Pressure Plate, and then torque them all down to 20Nm.

That's our Clutch assembly complete.



Clutch component assembly breakdown:

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We'll need to fit our engine in to our chassis before we go any further with the transmission and drivechain, so we'll come back to this later on in a 'Part Two'.

Now it's quite likely you're building your engine with the use of an Engine Stand.
If you're doing it on the floor then shame on you!
This is a simulator... what do you think you're doing?! Your engine will be full of crud building it on the floor! :D

Anyway, you have two options from here. (This may change in the future, and if it does I will edit this part accordingly.)
You can either use your Gantry Crane, which is the option you'll take if you want realism, or you can kinda cheat and use your Engine Stand to mount your engine in to your chassis.
(I believe you may be able to lift your engine with your hands in VR, but as I don't have VR myself I can't clarify this. However, in Desktop mode it seems you can't lift your engine with your hands high enough to be able to drop it in to your chassis.)

I cover the use of the Engine Stand and the Gantry Crane in a separate section near the start of this guide if you're uncertain.

So, I'll cover both options here, but they're basically the same for Stand or Crane. It's purely only getting in to position that will be different. Once it's sat in place then securing it and everything else from there onwards will be identical.

So, with the engine on the stand - wheel your stand complete with engine in to the rough position it will sit in within your chassis. Now you can either lower the height of the stand, or raise the lift to bring the chassis and engine together. It's your choice.
What you're looking for is for your Engine Mounts to fit within the mounting holes in the Front Subframe.

If you're using the Gantry crane, then the same applies. You're again looking to roughly align the Engine Mounts with the mounting holes in the Font Subframe.


Left Hand Side shown as it has better access for the screenshot.

Once it's roughly aligned, lower the engine or raise the lift (whichever you prefer) so as your engine sits nicely on to the Subframe. It's not critical if it's not totally aligned at this point as you can jiggle it in to place with your hands from there. The closer it is to being aligned though the easier it potentially is.

Once it's fully aligned and drops nicely in to place then you should be able to get at the Engine Mounts from the circular cut-outs on the underside of the Front Subframe, one on each side.
You should hear a small feint 'click' when the engine drops properly in to place if you're jiggling it around with your hands.

If all goes to plan then you should see the threads on the Engine Mounts poking through the Front Subframe as per the screenshot below.


If so, then go ahead and purchase the following:
2x M10 Nut.

Place your M10 Nut, one on each side, in to position on the ends of your Engine Mount where they protrude through the Front Subframe, and then tighten them down to 70Nm.


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Now, you have two options open to your from here for filling the engine with oil.
If you have the ePODS unlocked and available then you can use 4quarts of that to fill your engine with.
If not, you'll need to purchase the following:
1x Engine Oil: Castrol Edge 5W-30 (5Q).

Remove the Oil Fill Cap from the Valve Cover.
If using the ePods to fill your engine, fill with 4quarts of oil.
If using a bottle, it's best to use the Funnel, and pour the oil in to that. It will save spillages.
On the side of the bottle where the handle is you will be able to see a small thin 'window' showing how much oil is in your bottle, along with a scale running from top to bottom on either side of it. One side (left) is Quarts, and the other (right) is Litres. You want to be looking at the scale along the left hand side, which is the Quarts scale.
It will take 4 Quarts to fill your engine.


Don't be tempted to drop 4 Quarts in all in one go though as there's no way to remove oil without having to crawl underneath the car and removing the Oil Drain Bolt, which will result in losing a good Quart or more of oil before you manage to get the bolt back in again to stem the flow.
It'll likely cost you a second bottle of oil if you end up having to do this.
the best practise is to get it to 3 Quarts or so, and then check the Dipstick.
Keep pouring tiny amounts in until you get the oil to the right level on the Dipstick. (as per the screenshot below.)


There's two 'cutouts' in your Dipstick, along with a 'crosshatched' pattern all the way along the dipsticks between these two 'cutouts.
Basically, this is the 'Minimum' and 'Maximum' fill levels of your oil. The bottom cutout (furthest from the handle) is the Minimum level you ever want your engine to be running at, and then top cutout (nearest the handle) is the Maximum. Anywhere between these two and anywhere in the 'Crosshatched' area is acceptable for safe operation of the engine.
It is never advised to run the engine above or below these levels as potential engine damage can easily occur if you do.

If you get the engine oil level on your Dipstick to match the screenshot above, you'll be in great shape. Marginally under is also ok, as long as it is only marginal. Anything above the level shown below and you're likely to get penalised for an over-filled engine. Also, way below this level and the same may apply.
(I've ever actually tested it but I'm pretty sure the game will penalise you for an under-filled or an over-filled engine. As an ex-motorcycle mechanic IRL I've done more engine oil changes than you can shake a stick at, so doing those and getting the levels right comes naturally to me - hence never testing it or getting penalised.)

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Now on to the Battery.
Note: You have two options for a battery, and either one can be used for a Limited Class car and races.
The LiFep04 is lighter but costs more and also has half of the life expectancy of the heavier but cheaper and longer-lasting AGM battery.
The choice on which you use is up to you, but as I'm covering a totally stock car in this guide I'll go with the standard AMG battery.
Whichever one you chose to go with, make sure you buy the appropriate Battery Tray and Bracket to go with it. The two bolts that fix it all down are the same though whichever battery variant you go for.

Purchase the following:
1x Battery. (AGM)
1x Battery Tray. (AGM)
1x Battery Hold Down. (AGM)
2x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)

First up, place your Battery Tray in to position.
(The battery can be found at the rear of the car on the right hand side. Just above and in front of the Right Hand Side, Rear Wheel.)

Next, place your Battery on top of your Battery Tray.
Finally, place your Battery Hold Down (Battery Bracket as it's probably more commonly known) over the top of your Battery, and secure it all down with your two M8x15mm Bolts. One on the rear facing side of the battery, and one on the front facing side.

Go ahead and purchase the following:
1x Single Core Aluminium Radiator.
1x Radiator Cap.
1x Radiator Drain Plug.
1x Lower Radiator Hose.
1x Upper Radiator Hose.
4x 40mm Hose Clamp.
4x M8x15mm Bolt. (Class 10.9)

Place your Radiator in to position within your Chassis, and then secure it in place with your M8x15mm Bolt (Class 10.9), one at the top on each side and one at the bottom on each side, as per the screenshots below, and then tighten these bolts to 20Nm.




Place your Radiator Drain Plug in to position in the bottom-centre of your Radiator, and tighten to 10Nm.


Place your Lower Radiator Hose in to position between the bottom outlet stub of your Radiator and your Water Pump Inlet, and then fasten in position with two of your 40mm Hose Clamps, one on each end of the hose.

Place your Upper Radiator Hose in to position between the top outlet stub of your Radiator and your Thermostat Cover, and then fasten in position with two of your 40mm Hose Clamps, one on each end of the hose.

Now go ahead and purchase the following:
2x Premixed Coolant.

Fill your Single Core Aluminium Radiator with Premixed Coolant. It will take roughly 1.5 bottles to fill the system completely.
The easiest way to do this is by using your Funnel.
Place the Funnel in to the top of your Radiator. Begin to pour your coolant in to the Radiator - you will know when the system is full as the coolant will no longer flow from your Funnel and down in to your Radiator. You won't physically see your radiator overflowing like you would in real life, so watching to see when the coolant stops flowing from your funnel and in to the system is your only means of gauging it.


Note: Some players, especially those using Desktop Mode to play, can sometimes find pouring and aiming a little tricky to master. The trick to doing this is to ignore the bottle - don't look at it and focus purely on the mouse cursor/dot instead. That 'dot' is exactly where you're aiming, and where your coolant will flow when you tip the bottle.
If you try and gauge it from where you 'appear' to be holding the bottle,or from it's position/orientation within the screen/view, you're likely to miss where you're wanting to pour the coolant.
So always Ignore the view of the bottle and ficus on the cursor/dot instead. That way you're likely to have more success when pouring/aiming.

Once the coolant has stopped flowing from the Funnel and in to the Radiator (ie, the Funnel stays full/partially full and the level within it doesn't drop) then You can assume the system is full.
You can now go ahead and place your Radiator Cap in to position on the top of your Radiator.
We're all done here.

Go ahead and purchase the following:
1x Throwout Bearing.
1x Transmission.
1x Oil Drain Bolt.
1x Transmission Fill Bolt.
1x Starter.
10x Bellhousing Bolt.
2x Gear Oil: Castrol Syntrax 75W-90. (1L)

Take your Oil Drain Bolt and place it in to position on the underside of your Transmission, run it down, and then torque it down to 30Nm.


Next up, take your Throwout Bearing and place it in to position over the end of your Transmissions input shaft.


Place your Transmission in to position against the rear of your Engine Block.
Next place your Starter in to position within your Transmission housing from the engine Block side, just beside your Oil Cooler / Oil Filter.


Place your 10x Bellhousing Bolts in to position, run them all down, and then torque them all down to 75Nm.



Finally, fill your transmission with 2 quarts (2 bottles) of Transmission Oil. (Refer to the 'Fluid Change Guide' via the Help section of the Home Screen on your Tablet if you're unsure).
Once your Transmission is full, place your Transmission Fill Bolt into position and torque it down to 30Nm.




Now purchase the following:
1x Driveshaft.
1x PPF.
4x PPF Long Bolt.
4x M10x35mm Bolt.

Place your Driveshaft in to position between the rear of your Transmission, and your Rear Subframe. (This should bolt to the Rear Diff, but as that's all part of the Rear Subframe we'll have to say it bolts to that instead.)
Place your four M10x35mm Bolts in to position in the rear end of your driveshaft and tighten them down to 30Nm.


Place your PPF (stands for Power Plant Frame, in case you're curious) in to position between your Transmission and your Rear Subframe. Place your four PPF Long Bolts in to position within your PPF, 2 bolts per end, and tighten them down to 108Nm.

Go ahead and purchase the following:

1x N.A Intake Manifold.
1x N.A Intake Manifold Plenum.
1x 64mm Throttle Body.
1x 2.75" 65 Degree Silicone Elbow.
1x Intake Tube.
1x Air Filter.
3x Intake Clamp.
12x M8x30mm Socket Cap Screw. (Class 12.9)
9x M8 Flange Nut.

Place your N.A Intake Manifold Plenum in to position against your N/A Intake Manifold and secure it in place with eight M8x30mm Socket Cap Screw (Class 12.9), tightening them all down to 30Nm.


Next place your 64mm Throttle Body in to position on the end of your N.A Intake Manifold Plenum and secure it with the remaining four M8x30mm Socket Cap Screw (Class 12.9), tightening them all down to 30Nm.


Now place all of the items you've just assembled in to position against your Cylinder Head, then secure it all in to position using your M8 flange nuts, tightening them all down to 40Nm.


Now place your 2.75" 65 Degree Silicone Elbow in to position on the end of your 64mm Throttle Body and secure in place with an Intake Clamp.
Now place your Intake Tube in to the end of your 2.75" 65 Degree Silicone Elbow and secure with an Intake Clamp.
Now place your Air Filter on to the end of your Intake Tube and secure with an Intake Clamp.


That's your Intake System complete.
.
.
Now we move on to the Exhaust System.
Purchase the following:

1x OEM Exhaust Manifold.
1x OEM Exhaust Manifold Downpipe. (Catfish)
1x OEM Exhaust Heat Shield (Rear).
1x OEM Exhaust Heat Shield (Front).
1x Flex Pipe.
2x Catfish Muffler End Cap.
1x Catfish Muffler Body.
2x Catfish Muffler Packing.
1x Catfish Exhaust Tip.
3x V Band Clamp.
3x Stanless M10 Nut.
5x M6x15mm Bolt.
4x M6x10mm Button Cap Screw.
9x M10 Nut.


Take your OEM Exhaust Manifold and place it down somewhere.

Place your OEM Exhaust Heat Shield (Rear) in to position on the rear side (Engine facing side) of your OEM Exhaust Manifold and secure with two M6x15mm Bolts, tightening them to 20Nm.

Place your OEM Exhaust Manifold in to position against your Cylinder Head and secure in place with your nine M10 Nuts, tightening them down to 40Nm.

Now place your OEM Exhaust Heat Shield (Front) in to position on to your OEM Exhaust Manifold, and secure in place with three M6x15mm Bolts, tightening them down to 20Nm.

Next place your OEM Exhaust Manifold Downpipe in to position on the end of your OEM Exhaust Manifold and secure with three Stainless M10 Nuts, tightening them to 45Nm.

Now place your two Catfish Muffler Packing inside your Catfish Muffler Body, one in each end.

Next place your Catfish Muffler End Cap in to position, one on each end of your Catfish Muffler Body, and secure each one with two M6x10mm Button Cap Screw (two screws per End Cap). Tighten all four M6x10mm Button Cap Screw down to 20Nm.

Place your Catfish Muffler Body assembly in to position against your Chassis.

Now place your Flex Pipe in to position between your Catfish Muffler Body assembly and your OEM Exhaust Manifold Downpipe, and secure it with a V Band Clamp at each end.

Finally, place your Catfish Exhaust Tip in to position on the rear end of your Catfish Muffler Body assembly, and again, secure it in place with your final V Band Clamp.


.
Congratulations!
That's it. That's your engine fully assembled and installed.
You're good to go!

I hope you found this guide useful.

I know there are a couple of things that would ideally be done in a different sequence in the real world, but I attempted to find a little bit of a compromise between real life procedures and making it easier to follow and build the engine within the game.

If you notice something I've missed or anything that's incorrect, then by all means drop a comment below and I'll look into it.
Similarly, if you think there's anything that could be done to improve this guide (excluding translating it in to different languages) then, again, drop a comment below and I'll see what I can do.

This my first ever guide so hopefully I haven't made too much of a mess of it?!

As I've already stated, I have also created a guide which covers the entire chassis building process which, coupled with this guide will enable you to build an entire car from scratch. Feel free to check it out here:
https://psteamcommunity.yuanyoumao.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1638916184

If you liked this guide and found it of use, go ahead and hit that 'like' button...and why not hit the 'favourite' button while you're at it!
Your support will be greatly appreciated.



Now, off you go.
You have a freshly built engine and a race to win!
Go get 'em!
\o/