Some questions from a new player :: Brewmaster 酿酒大师综合讨论

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cutecabaret 拥有 Brewmaster 酿酒大师

7 月 3 日下午 10:48

Some questions from a new player

Hi! I bought this game in the Steam Sale - yes, I saw the reviews and I thought that for the sale price, it was worth the money. I know the bugs aren't going to be fixed and I'm satisfied with that (and yes, I understand the perspective of the people who are disappointed.)

I primarily bought it to mess around in the free play mode anyway - so things like broken achievements and story progress doesn't bother me as much. I also have never homebrewed irl nor do I intend to - this game is just a fun little toy for me to throw stuff together to see what happens. With all of that in mind, I have a few questions:

1. Keeping in mind that I basically only play Free Play mode, what current equipment and ingredient and recipe bugs are still outstanding in this build? I already know about the pump audio bug and I can endure that.

2. I heard about the plate chillers and coolers (NOT the immersion coolers) being broken and removing stats...but I can't seem to replicate that? When I use those tools, my stats don't change - it certainly doesn't drop all my IBUs to 0. Was this bug fixed? Does it not apply to free play mode? I could also be putting the tubing in wrong for intake wort and outtake wort - I've been putting the intake wort through the tap of the brew kettle and the outtake wort in the pot of the brew kettle. Is this correct?

3. I heard that carboys and even tubing and such are also broken, apparently, but again, unless I am missing something or they work correctly in Free Play, I haven't noticed anything off except for the fact that some liquids can't be poured into carboys (syrups and stuff).

4. Is there any mechanical difference between the fermenter types other that size and, for the non carboys, aesthetic? Does the conical fermenter do anything that the others don't?

5. Does using the electric kettle as a mash tun affect the final brew stats at all in a negative way? What is the easiest way to do the mash out step? Is sparging nonexistent and one basically follows the original mash out directions instead?

6. Are any of the ingredients broken/not functioning the way they should?

7. I do think some of the recipes may be broken - Double IPA in particular, for example, I follow the recipe to the T and no matter what I can only ever get 65% match because the procedures/ingredients/amounts of said ingredients listed in the recipe never give me the numbers that the final product requires. But I could also be doing it wrong, especially the tricky maintaining mash temp step - assuming using the electric kettle to cheese it also messes things up. I've tried basically every mash out strategy I've read here. For Double IPA in particular, I can never get the required amount of carbonation at the end without using a keg. I'm not too fussed about some recipes being broken, I just want to know if it's a recipe issue or if I'm doing something wrong.

8. Is there a way to tell what the final ABV is going to be before you put the yeast in, when creating your own recipes, so that you don't accidentally put a low tolerance yeast in a high ABV wort and ruin the recipe?

9. How important is getting the numbers/timing EXACT for things like ingredient amounts, mash temperature, how long the mash is sitting for, and how long hops are brewing etc? Is it okay if I pour a little too much, if the mash temp fluctuates a little off of 65C etc? The only real consequence I've seen so far is IBUs and flavors getting messed up if you overbrew the hops but is, like, letting your bittering hops brew for 51 minutes that much of a final brew killer? Is the mash step ruined completely if the grain doesn't stay in the mash tun for EXACTLY an hour? How much leeway do I have?

Thanks in advance! I know that a lot of these questions are meant to be solved through trial and error but it would help a lot if anybody had the answers to some of them, especially what current bugs are still affecting the game in a way that would impact fooling around in free play mode.

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ookuwagata 拥有 Brewmaster 酿酒大师

8 月 1 日下午 1:55

Hello fellow new player, well as far as I can tell:

1. You're not playing story mode, but as far as I can tell the only recipe bugs I've seen are that one recipe lists far too little corn sugar to produce the listed carbonation (which actually trips up one job in story mode). However I don't know if this is a bug or the game teaching you to not just blindly trust the recipes. Another recipe bug is that the description of a recipe talks about being careful about separating a bittering and aroma hop addition of the same variety for a recipe which doesn't do that. As far as equipment bugs, the only ones I've found is that pumps don't really work with chillers and with the water tap and that this game does not like you running more than one batch at a time; namely if you try to pump out from a mash tun into two kettles the game will send the wort into the first kettle only. (I was doing this to try to get around a certain annoying story job by making two batches and blending; also the game *does not like that*, even if the final blended beer meets all conditions, and shows up on the evaluation screen as such, it actually only evaluates the first batch made and will not give you a passing grade)

2. I think that was one of the few bugs the devs patched before dumping the game, check the dates on the posts

3. I haven't had issues but there's really no advantage to using a carboy compared to the plastic or metal fermenter, the only time I've used it was in the two story mode jobs that require it. The game's graphics aren't so amazing one would want to see the beer fermenting and in all likelihood you're using the calendar to skip to racking.

4. According to the game files there's an insulation difference between some of them, but honestly the fermenters seem to reach room temp or whatever the temp of the heating pad is quickly enough that it honestly doesn't seem to make a difference. It feels like maybe once upon a time the developers intended to do something more with how yeast reacts to temperature fluctuations (also the presence of lager yeast... and the complete absence of lagers from the game)

5. I don't think so; the story mode unlocks electric kettles as a perk midway through the game at a certain level of mastery. The game doesn't really tell you even in story mode what sparging is, I think it's something they added text for and then didn't implement/forgot about, but it's basically after one hour has passed and the game stops converting dissolved sugars into gravity you add hot water equal to the wort volume to the mash tun and then transfer it to the boil kettle.

6-7. Yeah, the corn sugar additions for some recipes are messed up. Honestly just use a keg and force carb.

8. Not really, but very roughly (with some futzing wrt efficiency and alcohol tolerance) you can look at the OG prior to fermentation and 1.0X roughly corresponds to X% ABV, 1.05 depending on the yeast will put you around 5% ABV and 1.10 is around 10% ABV for example. Use the X-ray feature, it also (if you press X) will show you the different flavor values. If you want to be precise you can always shoot a little above what you want and add water from the tap to dilute either the wort or beer back into the gravity/ABV or any other range that's a bit on the high side. It will impact your "contamination" value, I assume purely for gamey reasons, even though it and blending is pretty common practice in the real world. I have no idea how closely the game models conversion of fermentable sugars to alcohol, but if you wanted to test that you can always go to brewersfriend (or similar websites) and use their free ABV calculator tool

9. As far as I can tell having too low a temperature in the mash (not sure the exact temperature) will cause your contamination number to climb to around 7% (as opposed to the standard and as far as I can tell, unavoidable 4%), and I believe that letting the mash temperature rise too high will stop conversion of fermentable sugars, leading to a lower than projected OG/ABV. I believe you have a lot of leeway like a few degrees, but honestly if you have a pump it's easy to keep it within 65.00 and 65.90C; use the pump with the hot liquor to raise it to something like 65.5C and then run the stopwatch down to between 65.15~65.05 and depending on the pump just tap it on and off. It should rise to between 65.95 to 65.35 depending on the pump, stopwatch back down and repeat using the X-ray function to keep an eye on the conversion rate. Once it hits 00.00 rate of conversion it means you've been mashing for around and hour and... unlike IRL the enzymes just decide to stop working. Pump over enough hot water (I use the brew kettle filled with water that has been sitting covered on the burner to boil) to fill the mash tun's *liquid* volume to the wort volume in the recipe (21 for small, 42 for medium and I think 76.75? for large), empty out the remainder of water in the kettle in the sink and then pump the total volume of wort into the kettle to the boil. Supposedly raising the temperature in the mash tun around 80C also causes the contamination number to drop, but this only really happens in large batches because in most other batches you add so little water in the runoff stage it doesn't affect the temperature much. This doesn't even really matter in story mode regardless, most jobs and even contests don't seem to care much about contamination...